Breeding Schipperkes
Breeding Schipperkes
Male (L): Ch Blumoon's Cut Above x Ch Sea-Breez's Diamond In the Ruff
Female (R): Ch Dream On's Midnight Marauder X Ch Sea-Breez's Twice As Nice.
Photo courtesy of April Lessig, Sea-Breez Schips
First of all, I want to point out that I do not claim to be an expert on the genetics of dog breeding.
However, due to personal experience as a veterinary technician and tips given to
me from reputable breeders (honorable breeders who are more interested in breeding a dog true-to-type, according to the breed standard, than in money. In other words, quality vs. quantity.),
I would like to share some of these tips with you, and point you in the direction of informational books.
** Please research extensively the entire breeding/whelping/selling process and the responsibilities of a good breeder before you attempt to breed. **
_________________________________________ Why Not Breed?
There are many reasons why you should not breed. If any of the following are your motivation(s) for breeding, please do not breed!
Poor reasons for breeding:
1. I love my perfect dog and feel she/he should have pups.
You may love your dog, but are you sure everyone does? There are millions of hemeless pets in the world because of this motivation. Please don't contribute to the problem! Unless you have a list of people who definitely will buy your pups (regardless of how they turn out) before you breed, you cannot be assured that all will be placed in good homes. I have many friends who have said, "Schnauzers are in big demand - I'll find homes for them easily." Of course, some of them ended up practically giving the pups away, losing money in the process, and couldn't be positive that the pups were going to good homes where they'd never be taken to a city pound or shelter.
2. I want the children to witness the birth of pups.
I've never understood this reason, personally. What if the children want to witness a human baby being born? Would the parents decide to have another baby solely for this reason? I hope not. Neither should a litter of pups be brought into the world for this reason.
3. My dog is AKC-registered.
So are many of the dogs which have maimed children or acquired hip dysplasia. Being registered to a kennel club only means that both parents were registered. It does not mean that there are no genetic problems, and it does not mean that a dog should be bred!
4. Every dog should experience a mating before being neutered.
Why? Neutered dogs are not unhappy dogs. In fact, many seem happier because they are not troubled with the fact of escaping the yard to get to a mate. Dogs have been injured by attempting to get to a female in heat. Also, an intact male will be prone to urinating in the house and "humping" visitors, furniture, etc. A female who hasn't been spayed will have to be separated from other dogs, as well as carpet, furniture, and anything else that her bloody discharge can ruin.
A spayed female can actually be healthier, as heat cycles and matings are hard on her body. In order to protect against ovarian or testicular cancer, it is best to spay or neuter as soon as you are able to do so. It may be too late to stop territorial urinating or humping if a dog is mated before neutering. Neuter before these become habits.
I'd like to add that if you wish to keep your male or female intact, and keep them separated from other dogs, you may be shocked to know how determined they are to mate. Dogs have been known to mate through chain-link fences! Please, DON'T TAKE THE CHANCE!
5. I want to make money.
Honorable breeders seldom make much money from breeding. In fact, they sometimes take a loss. When you add up the expenses of genetic screening, check-ups, medication, unexpected emergencies, vaccinations of pups and dam (mother), food, and so on, it is easy to see why breeding can be expensive.
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What is a Reputable Breeder?
According to various sources, a reputable breeder encompasses all (or as many as are possible) of the following characteristics:
1. Is proactive (engages in positive activity)
2. Screens for health and temperament problems
3. Works hard to produce the ideal specimen, according to the breed standard, and studies other dogs in the breed
4. Studies pedigrees and genetics of the breed
5. Has a waiting list of prospective buyers
6. Maintains contact with buyers, including follow-ups.
7. Interviews prospective buyers and assures that they are right for the pups, and vice versa.
8. Requires dog to be returned to them, regardless of the reason.
9. Strives to improve the breed
10. Is ethical, conscientious, and careful
11. Refers prople to other breeders
12. Talks people out of buying the breed if it isn't for them
13. Clearly defines the circumstances in which money will be refunded, or offers an additional puppy, then stands by that promise. (One breeder wisely specifies that any money refunded will go to the veterinarian treating the pup for the problem that caused the refund. This stops buyers who try to get their money back under false pretenses.)
14. Is willing and eager to answer questions about the breed
15. Will contact puppy buyers if a potential health problem arises in the litter
16. Is honest, straightforward, and clear
17. Asks puppy buyers to keep them informed of the health of the puppy
18. Properly socializes and trains the dogs, as well as the pups
19. Works diligently to match the pups' personalities with that of the puppy buyers
20. Always tells the pros and cons of owning the particular breed
21. Directs puppy buyers to resources such as Veterinarians, obedience trainers, clubs, books, etc.
22. Informs the puppy buyer of the nutritional needs of the pup, including when, what, and how to feed
23. Requires a signed written contract regarding expectations of the pup. For example, if a pup bought as show quality doesn't place within a reasonable amount of time, the breeder will work with the owner to replace the pup if the problem is due to an undesired trait. If the pup is pet quality, a spay/neuter contract should be signed so that the pup will not be bred. This ensures that only quality specimens are bred, and that no bad traits will be passed along to new generations.
24. Has pedigrees, club papers (such as AKC), and other such documents ready upon purchase. Many breeders have pretended to have papers "on the way", and have promised to send them on to the buyers. Of course, they usually never came, because most of them were lying. Be sure that you have written documentation as to the history of the puppies.
Some disreputable practices:
1. Has several bitches in-heat housed with several intact males. (The father of the puppies would be an assumption, and therefore the pedigree would be an assumption as well.)
2. Doesn't witness all breedings
3. Falsifies paperwork
4. Uses large amounts of paperwork to "prove" the quality of the pup - even poorly bred puppies can have papers
5. Sells without health certificates
6. Sells puppies "as is" with no contracts or paperwork.
There are many other ways that breeders can be disreputable. Many of them aren't even aware that what they are doing isn't proper. This is why it is so hard to regulate such activity, and why it is so vital for buyers to thoroughly research the breeder they intend to buy from. This is also why it is imperative that each would-be breeder thoroughly researches the entire process of breeding before taking on such a task.
Remember - an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...
There are links to other sites which deal with breeding on the WWW Links page.
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Guide to Hereditary and Congenital Diseases in Schipperkes
Please see the section on Hereditary and Congenital Diseases in Schipperkes on the Health Care page. There are also many links to health care sites on the WWW Links page.
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Books and Publications on Dog Breeding/Gait/Genetics/Behavior:
Top Schipperkes. The diary of the American Schipperke. A quarterly publication of stats only, regarding top Schipperkes, top breeders, top sires, and top dams.
The Joy of Breeding Your Own Show Dog by Anne Seranne & Margaret Ruth Smith.
Born to Win (Breed to Succeed) by Patricia Craig (Trotter).
From Riches to Bitches Pick of the Litter by Louise Shattuck.
Dog Locomotion and Gait Analysis by Curtis Brown.
In the Ring by Nadine B. Eaton.
Happy Dog! Canine Behavior and Basic Training by Ruth I. Hannam.
Obedience & Tracking Today by Mardee Farnham Edelstein.
Info provided by Liz Kinoshita and the Schipperke-H list. Many of these books can be ordered via the web site: www.hoflin.com
Info provided by: Russell Pope, Cindy Tittle Moore, and Amy & Ace. :o)
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