4ply worsted weight yarn and a Sz K crochet hook
Foundation row: ch 16 (make a starting loop w/ your fingers by wrapping the yarn around your index finger - making a loop- slip it off your finger and then pull the long yarn strand through the loop you just made, pulling it tight to form a loop like a lasso. Slip this loop onto your hook, wrap the long strand of yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand and then up and around your index finger, hold the short end of the yarn (the bottom of the loop that is on the hook) with third finger and your thumb, draw up a loop through the loop on the hook by hooking the long strand of yarn with the hook, holding onto the short end bottom of the loop on the hook and drawing the hooked yarn through that loop- this is your 2nd loop made- keep hooking the yarn and drawing it through each previous loop until you have a chain of 16 loops made-counting the first loop you put on your hook as number 1) )~~~~ it is best to hold the hook like a pencil otherwise your gauge (the tension of your loops) will be sloppy and loose~~~~~~~ I've been crocheting like this for 50 some odd years and haven't gotten carple tunnel yet!! LOL
sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, 15 sc, (insert your hook in the 2nd ch from the hook - NOT counting the loop that is on the hook at this time- hook the long strand of yarn again and draw it up into this loop, then hook it again and draw it through both loops on the hook, you've made a sc),
in last ch make 2 more sc, DO NOT TURN, contine on around, picking up the foundation loop (the backside of the original ch you made) of each sc you just made and sc in each loop until you are back where you started, 2 more sc in this loop, DO NOT TURN as this bag will be made in rounds.
Round 2: sc in each sc around. Keep repeating this round for 15 more rounds or as many as you need for the length bag you need. If you find that you are loosing track of where the rounds start and your work seems to be slowly twisting sideways, tie a small piece of contrasting yarn to the first stitch of the foundation row and keep an eye on it as you work your way around. Try to always start a new row somewhere near that contrasting yarn, especially if you choose to add a pattern or other colors which you may do during this part of the pattern.
Round 3: *sk 1st sc, ch 1 (make a ch just like you did for the foundation row), sc in next sc, repeat from * around, sl st in first stitch made(insert hook in stitch, draw up yarn through this stitch and through the loop on the hook all at once) - this is the runner round for the drawstring-, fasten off (secure your yarn and cut the long strand free).
Drawstring: ch 50, fasten off. You can leave the drawstring as is or you can add a bead to each end. Be sure to check that the bead will fit through the runner hole or tie the last bead on AFTER you run the drawstring through the runner holes. Weave one end of the drawstring through each hole in the runner row starting from the OUTSIDE of the bag, making sure that you end up on the OUTSIDE of the bag at the last hole.
By changing yarns and sizes of hooks you can make many variations in sizes. This pattern can also be resized to form laundry bags, lengthened to be music stand covers, drumstick bags, or whatever you need, by simply changing the size of the foundation row after you've decided on what yarn and what hook you want to use. The large hook I used works the yarn up quickly and makes a flexible, soft item. Smaller hooks will make a tighter stitch, consequently not so flexible.
Good Luck!
(If you really get stuck,sign up for my Holiday Crash Crochet Course below and learn how to do it right!)