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A Half Dome Experience

A Yosemite Adventure

North Dome
What a View
Nanc & Joan
The Dome

Anyone who knows me, knows that for the past couple of years I have had this idea stuck in my head about climbing "The Dome". Well on July 9, 1997, I finally got my chance. A couple buddies and I took on the longed for adventure. I turned 40 in April and figured that I better give it a try now before the rat race zapped any more of my energy:)

Joan and I trained the night before by drinking 2 pitchers of Margaritas on the dining terrace at Camp Curry...that was a mistake on my part...for Joan, however, it was no problem as she is in excellent shape. Nancy was the smartest of all, she only had one drink. We awoke at 4:30 Wednesday morning. After dressing and packing, we arrived at the trailhead at about 6:30. My appetite disappeared soon after the hike began. I had packed more food then I needed and ate only a few dried apricots the entire day. Water was another story since I didn't take enough. Park administrators discourage drinking untreated water from Yosemite's rivers and streams due to the potential for bacteria from animal waste. (On the way down my mouth was so parched though, I stopped at the top of Nevada Falls and had a few scoops of the icy Merced...it was delicious).

We hiked the Mist Trail in the early dawn. It was beautiful and I was fresh and really appreciated this part of the hike. Vernal Falls was flowing full with Sierra snow melt and the sight of her kept me going. At the top of Vernal, I took a few moments to enjoy the Emerald Pool, a granite bowl, filled to the brim with glacial water, waiting to descend to the Valley floor. The pool shimmered and glimmered in the early morning sun.

 
  A Vernal Shower
     
Nevada Falls

The granite switchbacks up the shoulder of Nevada were brutal and by the time I got to the top, at 9:30 am, I was sucking wind and starting to hurt. But my pain did not stop me from contemplating the majesty of Nevada Falls with the imposing Liberty Cap standing guard above.

At the top of Nevada, I welcomed Little Yosemite Valley, and thanked the level, though sandy, trail it provided. Unfortunately, by this time I was getting low on water. I had jerry rigged a 70 oz. "Camel Back" bladder inside my day pack and lost a subtantial amount of water down the front of my shirt. It never did work properly. In addition, I was sweating Tequilla from the night before so sucking down water to stay hydrated was a natural effect.

After hiking for half an hour through Little Yosemite, the trail turned upward again. Now we climbed into a densely forested area. Rounding a bend we had the good fortune to meet Bambi and mom munching roots next to the trail. These deer may have been wild, but they let us approach to 10 feet or so, knowing from experience our cameras only shot pictures.

Up...Up...Up...we climbed. If any of you are interested in doing this hike, I can tell you, whatever it is, it is a long, long walk. The books say 16.4 miles round trip. I say it is longer..:)

Hiking Yosemite

By the time we came out of the tree line, I was out of water with sweat dripping into my eyes, clouding my vision. But the first glimpse of the dome, out of the trees, was an awesome sight and the surrounding landscape was...well it made me dizzy, to say the least.

First View
There  She  Is
The Cables

Next I faced 24 switchbacks of narrow, uneven granite steps, placed precariously, as a pathway to the base of the infamous Half Dome cables. I was suffering but I climbed...and I looked to the left and I looked to the right and I looked at my feet...and most times all I saw was blue sky.

A Stairway in the Sky

Joan's Tattered Glove

At the base of the cables there is a pile of gloves. There must me 100 loose gloves laying there, torn and weathered. I looked for a matching pair. The pair I selected was functional even though 50% of the material was worn through. I slipped them into my pocket. I would not be using them for the climb up but rather for the descent. The cables are steep. At their steepest, 55 degrees is not an exaggeration. There are 2 x 4's spaced about 10 feet apart, like slats on a ladder. Who thought to build this ladder to the Yosemite heavens? I do not know.

I was so tired when I hit the base of the cables. The granite enviroment was harsh and the sun was intense, beating on me without mercy. I wanted shade but there were no trees. I laid down next to a big granite boulder...it gave me comfort but no shade. My engine was overheating...I could not attempt an ascent without water and I knew it. That is when I became the beneficiary of a random act of kindness. A stranger kindly pulled a small bottle of Evian from his pack and gave it to me. Water was a precious commodity up there...between you and me...I think he was an angel:)

Exhausted I reached the summit, somehow...I was on Half Dome. I was there. But I sat at the top in a miserable daze with the merciless sun beating on me. I was too tired to enjoy our feat. I was too tired to explore this pinnicle that had captivated my imagination for so long. I was feeling sick and dizzy and I dreaded the only way down.


The Summit

The Saddle
Nanc on Top
Crazy

The climb down the cables was worse for me then the climb up. I do not mean the physical exertion...I mean the fear. I put on my tattered gloves, gripped a cable in each hand and commenced a slide through blue sky, the soles of my boots refusing to grip the white granite. I slid until I reached the sanctuary of a 2 x 4 and paused contemplating my next move. On one occassion, the 2 x 4 was missing and my mometum increased to a 20 foot slide of terror...I caught myself with my arms nearly yanking them out of their shoulder joints.

It's not a "Disneyland line" but on an early summer afternoon the cables are busy with traffic. It is best to ascend early since after 3:00 pm, the potential for thunder storm activity increases. Certainly you do not want to be on the cables in a thunder storm. Passing on the cables has to be negotiated. It is dangerous for both the climber ascending and the climber descending to be moving at the same time. Instinctively that fact seemed to be recognized by everyone I met. Routinely, I would give the hiker climbing up the option...should I slide to their narrow ledge or did they prefer to come up to mine? Usually the climbers were happy to let me slide down to their roost while they rested, huffing and puffing with physical exertion.

Back at the base, I wiped the sweat from my brow and tossed what was left of my gloves back into the community pile. I climbed a granite rise and sat back against a boulder to watch the cables and contemplate my quest. Had it been worth it...an unqualified yes. Would I do it again? Not in a single day...:)

Back at camp, 12 hours after our trek began, Nancy, Joan and I had an impromptu celebration. Mentally, I was happy and tuned. I had climbed the dome...but my feet were killing me. We guzzled a beer and conked out early, dirty, grimy, too tired to shower. But all better off for our Half Dome experience:

Soaking Sore Feet

All photographs on this page copyright (c) 1997
N. Robbins Photography

Narrative By K. Ellis 
Yosemite33@aol.com
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