INFORMATION
The Humber Vogue enjoys a huge interchangeability with many other cars of the Rootes group from Minxes in the '50s right through to the last Hunters of the '70s, BEWARE though, not everything is as straight forward as it appears.
For instance, if you wanted to fit an alloy head to a cast iron head motor or visa versa - easy - just swap the head, manifolds carbie & any associated bits. But, then try & start it for a few hours - it won't. Many people have been through this over the years. It is simply that the inlet & exhaust valve order is different, so you also need to change the camshaft, bummer. Alloy head camshafts are hard to find, another problem is that most of these are from Hunter GTs, Sunbeams etc, engines that are designed to give maximum torque around 4100 revs, although you may be able to locate one from a Sceptre or Vogue that gives max torque about 3300 revs. A normal cast iron head gives its maximum torque around 2700 revs, if the maximum torque is at high revs it's OK if you have a manual transmission, but if you have a BW35 auto you will find the only increase in power you get in normal town driving is by holding the lower gears-which is defeating the purpose of auto transmission. You also have an engine that runs best on 98 octane fuel,it will bearly run on 96 octane, the alloy head warps, cracks & corrodes around some critical water passages, it has also probably been shaved a few times, pinging? Good luck,you may be able to minimise this by changing your vacuum advance,or other distributor mods- or contact All Humber Parts (see Parts Suppliers) they can supply an excellent pointless Japanese distributor conversion. The final solution is to have hardened valve seats fitted & then use premium unleaded petrol, this should cost about Aust. if you don't need new guides - this is assuming you remove & refit the cylinder head yourself, if you have to take the car in & leave it for the work to be done, make sure you have at least another lying around. the WORST alternative of all is to run your car on LRP (if you are already, then remove your spark plugs & have a look at them!).
So if you have bothered to read this far, thankyou, that was just one example. Similar hidden problems lie in the transmissions, suspension etc, - they look the same but aren't.
THE SOLUTION
parts books are as important as workshop manuals,The Humber Vogue enjoys a huge interchangeability with many other cars of the Rootes group from Minxes in the '50s right through to the last Hunters of the '70s, BEWARE though, not everything is as straight forward as it appears.
For instance, if you wanted to fit an alloy head to a cast iron head motor or visa versa - easy - just swap the head, manifolds carbie & any associated bits. But, then try & start it for a few hours - it won't. Many people have been through this over the years. It is simply that the inlet & exhaust valve order is different, so you also need to change the camshaft, bummer. Alloy head camshafts are hard to find, another problem is that most of these are from Hunter GTs, Sunbeams etc, engines that are designed to give maximum torque around 4100 revs, although you may be able to locate one from a Sceptre or Vogue that gives max torque about 3300 revs. A normal cast iron head gives its maximum torque around 2700 revs, if the maximum torque is at high revs it's OK if you have a manual transmission, but if you have a BW35 auto you will find the only increase in power you get in normal town driving is by holding the lower gears-which is defeating the purpose of auto transmission. You also have an engine that runs best on 98 octane fuel,it will bearly run on 96 octane, the alloy head warps, cracks & corrodes around some critical water passages, it has also probably been shaved a few times, pinging? Good luck,you may be able to minimise this by changing your vacuum advance,or other distributor mods- or contact All Humber Parts (see Parts Suppliers) they can supply an excellent pointless Japanese distributor conversion. The final solution is to have hardened valve seats fitted & then use premium unleaded petrol, this should cost about Aust. if you don't need new guides - this is assuming you remove & refit the cylinder head yourself, if you have to take the car in & leave it for the work to be done, make sure you have at least another lying
around. the WORST alternative of all is to run your car on LRP (if you are already, then
remove your spark plugs & have a look at them!).
So if you have bothered to read this far, thankyou, that was just one example. Similar
hidden problems lie in the transmissions, suspension etc, - they look the same but
aren't.