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Boulder Valley Models -- On30 Kitbasher's Delight Series
Kitbashing ideas using the BVM KD-06 cab with a Bachmann 70-ton switcher
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NOTE: If you're new to the idea of "kitbashing," we highly recommend a visit to our introductory pages presented with the
KD-01 Center-Cab bash ... these pages present an overview of the kitbashing concept, along with a variety of ideas that may be useful on this or any other locomotive bash.
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Kitbashing Ideas ...
Here's an overview of how I used the components of the KD-06 Bashing Kit, a 70-ton switcher, some extra materials & details to build "The Warthog" loco for my On30 Phaedrus Coke & Lumber Railroad.
These ideas are presented to help kick-start your project. You may wish to copy some ideas, ignore others and maybe even look back at the KD-01 Center-Cab bash for alternative approaches. Once again, I'm pleased to present another great kitbash by my friend Sam Barbose -- this one shows one of our earlier cabs adapted to the Model Power "Porter Hustler" locomotive, which would be another ideal candidate for the side-door cab conversion. Have fun!
-- Dallas Mallerich, owner & On30 modeler
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Remove the stock pilots ...
This is the closest thing to "major surgery" that you'll have to do on this bash -- use a razor saw to cut through the pilots and coupler posts as shown. The saw blade can rest against the bottom of the sills as a guide, but it's not necessary to make a perfect cut. The KD-06 cab fits right against the hood on the 70-ton shell, so
no cutting is required there.
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Widen the frame / deck ...
The KD-06 kit includes the materials shown to widen the deck of the 70-ton loco to match the cab and pilots. If you're bashing a different loco, you'll want to take some measurements and/or experiment ... the deck can be widened to match the cab, or the cab can overhang the frame for an interesting effect.
You might notice as the photos are presented that I made the modifications as I went along ... not quite in the order now recommended!
One of the great things about kitbashing is that you can change your mind and modify the design as you go along.
I've tried to present the ideas in a "recommended" order that makes things a little easier ...
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Idea #1 -- Add some "big" new doors ...
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The doors on the 70-ton shell are flush with the hood, which gave me an idea ... it would be very easy to add a thin styrene overlay to enlarge the doors. Adding the doors as shown is very easy and highly recommended. I decided to go a step further by adding openings to a couple of the doors to allow a piece a brass mesh to fit inside.
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The photo at right shows my "Swiss cheese method" for removing large pieces from the shell. Outline the desired opening with a pen or pencil, then lightly score it with a hobby knife. Use a drill bit INSIDE the lines to make a bunch of holes. Then it's easy to slice between the holes and file out the finished opening. Why do this? It cuts down dramatically on cutting my fingers when trying to remove big pieces!
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The openings in the styrene doors are about 12" square -- the openings in the shell are a little bigger so the brass mesh can mount against the back of the door & still have a gluing surface. Since each plastic door overlaps TWO molded doors, make sure you cut the openings in the right place!
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Idea #2 -- Add grab-irons to the hood ...
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The 70-ton shell includes nice little stanchions to support the coupler lift-bar assembly ... these were saved and mounted on the side of hood to create a railing. I placed a steel ruler on edge above the doors & marked a line for the railing, then drilled holes for the stanchions. Make sure they're all facing the right way before gluing ... .020" wire will fit thru the holes with some extra "play" ... this will compensate for any irregularity in placing the stanchions. Secure with droplets of ACC.
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Idea #3 -- Change the grille ...
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The deck photo above shows how I originally planned to have a small radiator opening with a front-mounted headlight ... then I changed my mind and enlarged the opening as shown here. The final opening is 2'6 x 3'4 and lined with a criss-cross of styrene strip as shown -- the styrene is flush with the inside of the shell & sticks forward to form a bulky housing. A piece of brass mesh will be fit from inside.
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I decided to add a canvas screen to allow "adjustments" to the air intake ... the housing was built from styrene strip as shown here.
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More ideas on the next page ...
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Kit designs, photos & text copyright (c) 2003 Dallas Mallerich III
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