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Big Dean's Massey Ferguson Web Site
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Web Site
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Email
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HI My name is Dean Austin. I live on 5 acres with my Daughter Dena and my Grandson Jeff 17 We live 15 miles west of Shawnee, OK. a mile from the lake. I was a mechanic for Massey Ferguson dealers for 27 years. I hope some of this information below will be of help the Massey owners out there. This is an attempt to put down some of the things I have picked up while working as a Massey Ferguson mechanic. After more than 25 years you will learn a few things that are not thoroughly covered in the manuals. Hopefully this may be of help to someone. A lot of Mechanics do not like to give away these little things. If it will help anyone save a dollar or two then I have done what I was trying to do when I started this project. I have a lot of pictures with notes on them. I have some documents I have put together like what you need to do when splitting a tractor or how to adjust the lift cover. If you have any questions about any of this you can e-mail me.
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I now have a CD Disc ready for the MF135, MF150, MF165 & the MF175 & one ready for the TO35, MF35, F40, MH50, MF50,& the MF65 I now have a CD Disc For the Industrial tractors. Click here for details on the disc
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Page 1
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Power Steering tips
First we will start with bleeding the air out of the power steering system. You always fill the reservoir with the engine running. After you have it full, turn the wheels from stop to stop several times to disperse the air from the system. You may have to fill the reservoir a couple of times if there is a lot of air in the system.This is done with the plug out
Othe tractors with the steering cylinder & selector valve behind the grill
There are two pins that give problems. They are the pins that hold the turnbuckle for the adjustmet that centers the selector valve. These pins must fit tight or the steering will be sluggish or will only have power going one way. This system has to have enough slack for the selector valve to open before the steering gear starts to move the wheels. As the bushings wear you have to have more slack in the part that activates the selector valve. There is an adjustment in order to get a little extra slack to activate the selector valve.
Remote hydraulic
The factory remote hydraulics can be expensive to add on. The best way to do this is getting it from a tractor salvage there are a lot of parts involved. If you get the whole setup from a salvage it is a lot easier & a lot cheaper than trying to get all the pieces you will need from the dealers. The only bad thing about doing it this way is you never know what shape the pump is in till you start to use it. A front mounted pump works best for a loader. There are after market valves with an adapter that goes in place of the transfer cap right in front of the seat. They use the three-point pump for the remote cylinders. It is very slow & you can not use the remote cylinder & the three point at the same time. There is some pto pumps that will work fairly well but are very aggravating when you need the pto to run other equipment with. In my opinion you need at least a 17 GPM pump for the loader to perform right
The MF50 & MF65 when using a front pump the steering arm on the main shaft that runs down through the front housing will hit the pump shaft restricting the steering to the left to less than half of it’s original travel. Unless you can find one of the arms that Massey used to furnish for adding the front pump. This steering arm has been out of production for several years now. I have not been able to find any after market replacement for it. I have seen several different fabricated arms that worked. Some good some not so good.
Multi Power transmission leak problems
On tractors with Multi Power there are four steel rings they are on the pto & main input shafts these rings will wear grooves inside the front retainer & the pto input shaft. When these grooves get deep enough they will start to let the pressure that apply the clutch pack for high Multi Power bypass. This lets the pressure get to the two lip seals for the input shafts. These lip seals will not hold the pressure, causing a transmission oil leak. The oil will start to run out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing. Usually it will not leak when the Multi Power is in low because there is no pressure there in low. You will find a lot of tractors with the linkage adjusted or unhooked so you can no longer get them in high this is done a lot to hide leaks when someone wants to sell a tractor that has this problem. I have also seen a lot of weep holes plugged to hide these leaks.
Thing to check when buying a MF tractor
On the bell housing there is a weep hole on the bottom it should have a cotter pin head sticking down twist it around Check there for leaks. It Is all right if it is a little damp around it but should not have a steady drip of oil. If the pin head is not there stick something up in the hole and move it around to make sure it is not plug people will plug that hole to hide transmission leaks. It can get very expensive to repair those leaks. After it gets warmed up let it idle a couple of minutes then run it up about 1500 rpm there should not be any blue smoke come out the exhaust. Put something on the three point the heavier the better, raise up and shut off the engine it probably will seep down. That is normal but it shouldn't fall steady. Try to have the hydraulic oil hot when you do this test. On the MF50 & MF65 also the 150 through 180. Behind the grill is the power steering cylinder if it hasn't been cleaned up it will have oil and dirt there. Look for any clean spots they are cause by leaks there should not be any oil that you can see there. Shake the rear wheels side ways to see if the axle are tight and check there for any signs of a leak right behind the wheels. With live power the clutch should stop the tractor half way down with the PTO still turning. Then the PTO should stop when you push the clutch all the way down. With the independent Pto it is best to get the transmission oil close to operating temperature. With something hooked to the PTO engage the PTO. It should start to turn immediately. If it hesitates that is a good sign the clutches or the seals are bad. I hope this helps you find any problems before you by the tractor. Pull the hydraulic dipstick if the oil is white or light gray this means the oil has water in it. Check the normal things like any coolant leaks or any major oil leaks & be sure to check the oil & coolant levels. if the brake have a good pedal but still not stop the tractor except to spend any where from $200 to $600 to get brakes If you are going to do the work. You can probably add another $400 to 600 if you have it done at a shop. This is how I would check one if I were buying it.
When removing the lift cover on the 100 series tractors
. You have to remove the access plate from the right side of the rear housing (the one with the response control lever & dipstick.) Behind this plate there are Two small arms sticking up from the pump. In these arms is a roller that must be removed before you raise the lift cover. The arms will spring apart to remove the roller. If you don’t do this you will tear the linkage off the pump.
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Industrial specs. & serial numbers
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This page tells a little about me who I am what I have done & where I live
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This is my story page where I tell stories like the crazy things I have done & seen.
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