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Getting the main shift lever unstuck
Pull your filler plug for the transmission look inside you will see a big gear. Find a level spot shut off the tractor. Push the clutch down & put the high low shifter in neutral to relieve any pressure that might be on the gears. With a long screwdriver or a small pry bar pry the big gear forward if it is hung in reverse. Pry it back if it is hung in first gear. If you happen to go to far it will go in the other gear. You need to get it in the center. You should be able to feel the detent balls pop in the grooves in the shift rail as you move the gear. Through the years I have probably unstuck at least a 1000 of them this way. It is a common problem on the Massey tractors after they get a little wear on them
Brakes Disc & Drum
The TO 20, TO30, TO35. MF35, MF50 MF135, MF150 the industrial MF20 MF2135 MF202 & the MF204 all had drum brakes. From the MF65 through the MF1080 came with internal dry disc brakes. The very last of the 100 series except for the one with drum brakes had wet disc brakes. The dry disc & the drum brakes will get a glaze on them that will make them useless. Oil on them will do the same.
Splitting Your Tractor
Splitting a tractor is real not a big deal if you if you have a floor jack a bottle jack & a cheery picker or a chain hoist. A come -a- long will work if that is all you have. You will need a concrete slab or I have used a sheet of ¾ plywood in the field for the jack to roll on. I have an article on what you need & how to split one. Email me if you need it.
The Two Speed or High Low
The two speed part of the transmission or more often call the High Low shifter. It has a ring that is pressed in to the hub this ring will come out . Causing it not to go in to high. Some times they will not go in either gear. When this happens this ring can be drove back in & spot weld in about 3 or 4 places. There is no telling how many of these I have fixed this way.
Shear Coupler
Behind the high low part of the transmission there is a shaft going to the differential with a coupler that has a machined groove. It is supposed to shear before you tear up something. When it shears the tractor will not move.
Independent PTO
The independent PTO is a hydraulic controlled Clutch pack in the rear housing. It has a piggy back pump that sets on top of the three point pump. This pump is also used for the Multi Power. It has two stage pump if you have remote hydraulics. The PTO has a brake that stops it from turning when the PTO is disengage. The engine should be idled back before you disengage the PTO. This will make your brake last a whole lot long. The brake is not capable of stopping the momentum most implements.
Manual PTO
Most of the older tractors have a ground speed & engine speed on the manual PTO. You never want one in ground speed while using a rotary mower. The tractor brakes will not stop the momentum of the mower. It will push the tractor when the main clutch is disengaged.
Dual Clutch
The dual clutch is two clutches in one. You have the main disc & pressure plate. Inside the cover is the PTO disc & pressure plate. As you release the main disc the main pressure plate pulls back. It has three stop bolts for the PTO plate. When the stop bolts touch the PTO plate it start to release the PTO disc. When the pedal is push all the way down both disc are released. As the main disc wears down you have to make an internal adjustment for the PTO clutch though the hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. If your PTO clutch is not releasing you probably need to make this adjustment. I have some picture showing how to make this adjustment
Clutch Adjustment
On most of the Massey Ferguson tractors. The clutch is adjusted by loosing the bolt that clamps either the pedal or the arm. (depending on which model tractor you are working on) Inserting something in hole of the shaft .That come from inside of the bellhousing. While holding the pedal or arm and turning the shaft clockwise till you feel it touch the finger on the pressure plate. Then turn it back just enough that you have about an inch free travel on the clutch pedal. This is just a basic adjustment to be accurate you need the free travel specs from the operators manual for the model tractor you are working on. On some tractors there is a piece of linkage between the pedal & the clutch arm with a clevis with two holes. The hole closest to the end is to make the PTO clutch release. The other hole is for when you do not need the PTO you can lower the pedal so it is easier to get your foot on the pedal. Some have the two holes in the clutch arm. The top hole on them is for the PTO clutch to release
Checking Oil In The Planetary
The tractors with the planetary on the outer end of the rear axles should have the gear oil checked in them regular. I have found that most people that have these tractors either don’t know to check them or neglect to check them till it is to late. Most tractors that have wet brakes don’t need to be checked.
Wet or Dry Disc Brakes
The way to tell if you have wet or dry brakes. On wet breaks on the back of the plate that goes between rear housing & the axle housing there are notches on the wet brakes plates they look like half circles. This plate on dry brakes is smooth.
Diverter Valve
For tractors without the factory auxiliary hydraulics there are several different types of valves that mount where the transfer cap goes just in front of the seat on the right side of the lift cover. These get there oil from the three point pump. You can not operate a remote cylinder & the three point at the same time. The proper way to use one of these valves depends on which one you have. Because there are so many different types they are very confusing to use properly. On most of the two spool valves you lock the left lever back to use the Draft or position control levers for the three point. If anyone has questions about one of these. Email me I will try to help you with it. It would take two pages to try to explain how each different valve works.
Three Point Control Valve Sticking
The control valve will get trash in them & cause them to stick. They will also stick under a heavy load if the oscillator for the valve is not working the valve. You can usually get them unstuck by removing the access plate on the right side of rear housing & working the two small arms with the roller in them by hand.
Diesel Fuel In The Crankcase
The little lift pump on the right side of the engine is the problem 90% of the time. The front seal of the injection pump can also leak but that is rare on a CAV pump. It is possible to get diesel in the crankcase if the injectors are not atomizing right but this is also very rare. you can usually see a lot of small bubble on the dipstick when there is diesel in the oil If you don’t smoke you can smell it.
Power steering fluid in crankcase
The Front power steering pump seal will also leak into the crankcase. If you have to add power steering fluid on a regular interval & your crankcase is showing over full it is very possible you might have that seal leaking. It is not uncommon if the area in pump body where the shaft runs has much wear that a new seal will not last lo
Gear Hydraulic Oil Used In the Older Tractors
On the older tractor before the 100 series it is recommend that you use the 80/90-weight mineral oil. Massey # M1103. There has been a lot of controversy on the tractor boards about this. Here are my thoughts on this. The Reg. gear oil will work but sooner or later you will probably have problems with using it. The paraffin in this oil will gum up the valves and filter & you will have to tear the pump down to clean it out. It will also build up on the sides of the gearboxes causing more problems later. I have seen this problem so many time though the years. These tractors can use the same oil that the newer tractors use if the hydraulics is in good shape. this oil is Perm-A-Tran 3 or the old number is M1129A. Some people use Perm-A-Tran 3 in the winter & switch to the M1103 in the summer. If the oil is still clean with no water in it you can save it & reuse it.