Finding a Dog or Puppy the Right Way
First, of course, you must know what breed you want. With all the dog breeds that are available, it is easy to find the right dog to fit just about any lifestyle. At the same time, it is also very easy to make a mistake and get a breed that does not fit in at all. The dog, more often than not, winds up in the local pound where, if it's lucky it will find a good home. Odds are it will become one of the millions of animals that are put to sleep every year through no fault of its own. This is a lifetime commitment to an animal, so if you are buying someone a puppy as a gift, PLEASE do not just go out and buy a puppy for them. Instead, make it special by reading this thoroughly and helping them make a well thought out decision. A good idea for this would be to include a card with a note inside saying you will pay for the dog or puppy and that you would like to help them with this important decision..
Part One: KNOW YOUR BREED!
1. Find out what club represents your breed.
2. Read the breed standard.
Beware of ads that advertise things against the standard: such as unacceptable colors and sizes (ex. teacups, red Rottweilers, white/albino Dobes, etc.)
3. Call the national or local breed rescue.
Find out why most dogs of your chosen breed are given up. Examples are often too high energy, bark too much, etc. Realistically decide if the common "complaints" are also ones that would make the dog a poor choice for your family.
4. Attend some dog shows or field trial events and meet some of the breed and their owners personally. You can find these by asking the breed club for local events or, with AKC dogs, checking
5. Read and learn about your chosen breed. Talk to both pet and show/work owners. Visit the PCF Dog Boards and AOLs Talk About Dogs. TALK to owners there who can be both great sources of information before you get a dog and help and support afterwards.
6. Know what the breed recommended tests for genetic and health problems should be and do not accept excuses for a breeder not having the major ones done. The breed club will often have these listed in their Code of Ethics but if you do not find them, ask for a list.
7. Finally, decide what you want the dog for, pet, show, working? Do you really want a puppy or what about an older dog out of the puppy stages? How about a rescue dog? One major advantage to adult dogs, particularly rescue and shelter dogs, is that with an adult dog it isn't necessary to wait for the dog to mature to know what the temperament will be like. Also, by adulthood many genetic problems are already evident. IOW, with adult dogs there are less unknowns.
Part Two: Finding the Right Source
1. IT IS AGAINST almost all breed clubs' Code of Ethics to sell to a broker or pet store, or to supply a dog for an auction or raffle. Responsible breeders place their own animals, with contracts. The best way to find a breeder is through the breed club referral, then meeting and getting references.
2. Many breeders do not advertise. To find responsible breeders you may have to do much more than open a newspaper. However, some breeders do advertise, so learn how to read the advertisements to find those that do. Reading Classified Ads
3. Talk to the breeder. A breeder who does not have time for you now, or is unwilling to set up a time to talk, is probably not going to have time for you later.
4. Be sure and see certificates of health testing on parents.
For Example:
HEART -- cleared by a CARDIOLOGIST within the previous year (not just regular vet).
EYES--Sire and dam should have a current (within the last year) CERF test by an
OPTHAMOLOGIST (this also cannot be a regular vet).
PATELLAS--Luxating, or slipping, patellas, or kneecaps are a common problem in toy breeds. A (regular) vet needs to check sire and dam before breeding.
Certification can also come from the OFA.
HIPS--OFA An xray is taken by a regular vet and sent to the Orthopedic
Foundation for Animals for a grading of excellent, good, fair, borderline,
or degrees of dysplasia. The OFA website has some excellent info
5. Shelter Dogs: Many of the breed clubs will work with you if you decide to adopt from a shelter in evaluating the dog. Unless you are a professional trainer or very experienced, do not take on dogs with any aggression problems. If there is some question or the dog needs some temporary training, it might be possible to have a rescue group foster and work with a dog that you find if you are willing to
sponsor the dog until it is ready for placement. If you can get the aid of a good breed rescue, this is a very good evaluation tool. It may be worth the expense to pay a trainer to help you evaluate any shelter dog.
6. Rescue groups: Most breed club rescues will have evaluated and often fostered a dog for several weeks or months before placement. Like responsible breeders, most will also take back the dog if for any reason things do not work out.
Part Three: Selecting the Right Dog
Many breeders will meet with you, get to know what you seek and will help match you to the right puppy. If you do not trust the breeder to do this, it is possible that you have chosen the wrong breeder. A breeder that will allow you to pick any puppy might not be an experienced breeder. Not all puppies are suitable for all families and not all families are right for certain puppies.
Puppies should rarely leave the litter prior to 8 weeks of age, and with some breeds not until 10 to 12 weeks of age. While many breeds cease nursing by 4 weeks of age, it is critical they remain with their littermates to learn pack behavior and biting inhibition. Anyone willing to place a puppy less than a few days short of 8 weeks should be viewed with caution. Be aware it is also ILLEGAL in some states to place before 8 weeks of age. These links should provide some basic understanding of what goes into evaluating a puppy.
With thanks to Melinda Wiley for editing help!