HB Sampler 2 Stitching Directions

DOUBLE BACKSTITCH

Double backstitch is sometimes also called closed herringbone stitch. It is stitched in rows, so it's an excellent stitch to use for dividing bands and borders. Double backstitch is a repeating stitch, so once you get the hang of it, it's easy to do. It is also considered a reversible stitch. Although the back will not look like the front, you'll find a definite pattern to the back of a row of double backstitch. While double backstitch can be done on Aida, it is most effective done on evenweave or linen fabric, IMHO. For the purposes of this project, we'll be stitching with 2 strands of floss. I have recommended double backstitch for the outside border of the sampler and the first dividing band just below the large hearts.

To begin almost any stitch over 2 threads on evenweave fabric or linen, it's best to be sure there's a vertical fabric thread above and to the right of the hole in which you begin stitching. This makes the stitching itself much more stable because your floss won't slip under fabric threads and become lost. It also makes for smoother stitches.

If you look at a piece of evenweave fabric or linen, the area covered by a regular cross stitch done over 2 threads looks something like this, with the o's representing the holes:

o o o

As I write the directions for the beginning of a row of double backstitch, I'll refer to the above diagram.

1. The first stitch in a row of double backstitch is an "extra," meaning it is not a part of the repeating pattern of the stitch. It simply makes the beginning of the row balanced.

2. You'll want to begin the first stitch in a row in the hole of the fabric corresponding to the o in the upper row and farthest to the left in the diagram by drawing your needle and floss up through this hole.

3. Count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads down, taking needle down through this hole. It corresponds to the o in the bottom row on the extreme right in the diagram. This makes a diagonal stitch \ .

4. Next comes the first of the two repeating stitches that make up a row of double backstitch. From the point at which you ended your first stitch, count 2 threads to the left. Bring the needle up through this hole, which would be the one at the left in the bottom row of the diagram above.

5. Count 2 threads up and 2 threads to the right, taking your needle down through this hole. This makes a diagonal / . It also completes a regular cross stitch, although it may not cross in the direction in which your xes usually cross. That's okay.

6. Now, you're ready to make the second of the two stitches that will repeat through the row. Count 2 threads to the left of the hole in which you just completed the / . Draw your needle up through this hole. If you've counted correctly, it will be the same hole in which you began the very first stitch. :-)

7. This time, you're going to make a looooong diagonal by counting 2 threads down and 4 threads to the right. Take your needle down through this hole. This stitch is longer than the others you've done. That's okay. It's supposed to be. :-)

8. To continue the row of double backstitch, repeat from step 4 until you reach the end of your row or are ready to turn a corner. As the row develops, you'll notice the stitches on top of the fabric have a plaited look to them. I like the texture this creates.

By this time, you may be asking yourself why on earth this thing is called double backstitch. Doesn't look like any backstitch you ever did, does it? ;-) Turn your fabric over and look at the back. What you're going to find if you've done the stitches correctly is 2 rows of backstitches 2 fabric threads apart and parallel to each other. Oddly enough, the back is what gives double backstitch its name. You'll also see that the 2 rows of backstitches are uniform, and that's why this is considered a reversible stitch. The front and back don't look at all alike, but both form pleasing patterns. :-)

ENDING A ROW OF DOUBLE BACKSTITCH

If you are doing a single row of double backstitch, meaning you aren't going to turn a corner, you'll need to add a compensation stitch at the end to help balance the row, just as you did at the beginning. Here's how.

1. The repeating stitch with which you end a row of double backstitch should be the short diagonal described above in steps 4-5. It will be finished through a hole at the top of the row.

2. To begin the compensation stitch, count 2 threads to the left, bringing your needle up through this hole.

3. To complete the compensating stitch and the row, count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads down. Draw your needle down through this hole.

TURNING A CORNER

If you choose to use double backstitch for the outside border of the sampler, you'll have to turn corners. This is not as difficult as it may seem. :-)

1. First, at the point where you will be turning a corner, you'll need to add a compensation stitch just as you did above to end a row. From your last repeating short diagonal, just follow directions 1-3 above under ENDING A ROW.

2. From the point at which you finished the compensating stitch, count 2 threads up, bringing the needle up through this hole. The hole is the one that's going to be the exact corner.

3. Count 2 threads to the left and 4 threads down, taking the needle down through this hole. The resulting stitch will be a long diagonal like the ones you did on your way across the row, except that this long diagonal will go down instead of across.

4. Now (and this is what makes turning corners easy), turn your fabric 1/4 turn so the diagonal you just completed goes across the fabric instead of down. So, you've already begun the second side of the border. :-)

5. After you've turned the fabric, count 2 stitches to the left of the long diagonal you just finished. Bring the needle up through this hole.

6. Count 2 threads up and 2 threads to the right. Draw the needle down through this hole, making the short repeating diagonal.

7. To continue the second side of the border, just start repeating steps you did in stitching the first row. And there you have it. :-)

FOUR-SIDED STITCH

Last week in both Class Act Chats, we did Four-Sided Stitch. In the sampler, I have recommended it for the large hearts at the top, the flower between them, and the second dividing band. The diagram for Four-Sided Stitch and Double Backstitch (the first in this series) are together in one file which you can download from AOL. To find them, go to Keyword: SEW-->Fiber and Needle Art-->FANA Library-->Stitch Diagrams 1.

Four-Sided Stitch is exactly what it's name says--when complete, it makes a square. It's often used in borders and can be seen in alphabets, as well as other items on samplers.

Four-Sided Stitch, like Double Backstitch, is considered a reversible stitch. Although the front and back are not exactly alike (in this case, far from it), the back has a pleasing pattern. One stitcher pointed out this would be an excellent stitch to use on a bookmark or any piece in which the back will be visible. :-)

Four-Sided Stitch is best done on evenweave fabric or linen. It is not as effective stitched on Aida.

This stitch can be handled in two different ways. The first is to use the same tension on each stitch that you would use making a regular cross stitch. The second option is to pull each stitch tighter than you normally would a cross stitch. Doing so creates larger holes in the corners of each square. When done this way, it becomes a pulled-thread technique (you are pulling your stitches tighter and pulling fabric threads together). I recommend you try it both ways to see which you like best. :-)

Again last week, we used that little diagram I drew of the holes in evenweave or linen covered by one regular cross stitch done over 2 fabric threads. This time, I numbered the holes for easier reference. Here it is:

1 2 3

o o o

4 5 6

o o o

7 8 9

o o o

Each o represents a hole, and the numbers are above the holes to which they correspond.

I would remind you again (I said it wrong at one of the chats last week) that when you stitch on evenweave fabric or linen, most stitches should begin in a hole which has a vertical thread to the upper right. This makes the stitches smoother and keeps them from disappearing under fabric threads.

1. To begin a Four-Sided Stitch, bring your needle up through the hole in your fabric corresponding to hole #1 in the above diagram.

2. Count down 2 threads, drawing the needle down through this hole (#7 on the diagram). This creates a vertical stitch, which will be the left side of the square.

3. Next, count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads up. Draw your needle up through this hole (#3 in the above diagram).

4. Count 2 threads to the left, taking your needle down through this hole (#1). You've just done a horizontal stitch which is the top of the square.

5. Count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads down, bringing your needle up through this hole (#9).

6. Count 2 threads to the left. Draw your needle down through this hole (#7). This makes a horizontal stitch which is the bottom of the square.

7. Now, count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads up. Bring the needle up through this hole (#3).

8. To finish the square, count 2 threads down, taking the needle down through this hole (#9). You've just made a second vertical stitch which closes the square. :-)

9. If you have more than one Four-Sided Stitch in a row, the vertical stitch you just completed closes the first square, but it also becomes the first vertical side in the second square in the row.

10. To continue with the row, all you need to do is to repeat these instructions from step 3 above.

TURNING CORNERS

We did not have time to discuss turning corners Monday evening, although we did so briefly on Friday. The downloadable diagram shows how to turn corners if you are doing a square or rectangular border. Because this isn't done in the sampler, I'll refer you to the diagram and discuss what to do with the hearts at the top of the sampler and the flower between them. :-) This is a little less complicated.

1. When you complete a row of squares for the hearts or even one square by itself, all you have to do to begin the next stitch not in the same row is to turn your fabric a quarter turn to the right. :-) Yes, this means that sometimes your fabric will be sideways and sometimes, upside down. That's okay.

2. To do the square not in the same row, after you've turned your fabric a quarter turn to the right, just follow the directions above from step 1.

3. If you have just one square in a row, when you complete it, turn the fabric again a quarter turn to the right and do the next square. :-)

RICE STITCH WITH 2 COLORS

Rice Stitch is a stitch that takes up as much room on fabric as does a regular cross stitch done over 2 fabric threads. It can be done with one floss color; however, the nature of the stitch allows the stitcher to use two colors if (s)he chooses. :-) It is also stitched differently from regular Rice Stitch because of the color addition. Rice stich is often chosen by stitchers for the same reason they use other specialty stitches: to add texture to a piece of needlework.

The stitches I taught earlier in this series are all reversible, meaning that although the back side is not the same as the front, it forms a pleasing pattern. :-) As one astute stitcher said, the reversible stitches would be perfect to use on bookmarks or on other pieces in which the back of the fabric will be visible. Rice Stitch is not considered a reversible stitch because the back is not as attractive as the front.

The diagram which will shortly be available will show both regular Rice Stitch and Rice Stitch with 2 colors. The instructions here are for Rice Stitch with 2 colors.

Before I begin the directions, let me include once again the little diagram I use during our chats.

1 2 3

o o o

4 5 6

o o o

7 8 9

o o o

Each o represents a hole in a piece of evenweave fabric or linen. The numbers, I have added for reference. :-) The diagram shows the space on a piece of evenweave or linen covered by one regular cross stitch done over 2 fabric threads.

Rice Stitch with 2 colors is very easy to begin. :-) With the first color you have selected, do a cross stitch for each stitch that will become a rice stitch. That was easy, wasn't it? :-)

Now comes the fun part. :-) You'll want to thread your needle with a different color floss. I recommend using one, for this project, that is in the same color family as the xes you just did. I find this shows up best if the xes are done in a darker shade and the rest of each stitch is done in a lighter shade. As usual with cross stitch, this is matter of personal preference. :-) I encourage you to experiment with other colors and shades.

1. After completing the cross stitches, you're going to cross each arm of the x with a small diagonal stitch using a different color floss. If you look closely at your eveweave fabric or linen, you'll notice an empty hole between the arms of the cross stitches on each of the 4 sides. They correspond to holes 2, 6, 8, and 4 on the above diagram. These are the holes we'll be using for the small diagonals.

2. To begin the first small diagonal, bring your needle and floss up through the hole between the top ends of the x. This corresponds to hole #2 on the above diagram.

3. Count 1 fabric thread to the left and 1 thread down, taking the needle down through this hole, #4 on the diagram. This creates a small diagonal /.

4. Now, count 2 threads to the right. Draw your needle up through this hole, which is between the ends of the x on the right side and corresponds to hole #6 on the diagram.

5. Count 1 thread up and 1 thread to the left. Take the needle down through this hole, #2 on the diagram above. You've just done the second little diagonal, \.

6. Count 2 threads down, bringing the needle up through this hole, between the 2 ends of the x on the bottom and hole #8 on the diagram.

7. Next, count 1 thread to the left and 1 thread up. Draw the needle down through this hole, #4 on the diagram. This makes the third diagonal, \.

8. Count 2 threads to the right. Bring the needle up through this hole, #6.

9. Finally, count 1 thread down and one thread to the left. Take the needle down through this hole, #8. You've done a rice stitch in two colors. :-)

10. To complete other rice stitches in two colors, all you need to do is to repeat the steps above from 1-9.

MOSAIC STITCH & ALTERNATING MOSAIC STITCH

Mosaic stitch is another stitch you can use to add texture to a counted-thread project, and it's an easy one to do. I was reminded Monday evening that many plastic-canvas stitchers use mosaic stitch in their work, too. :-) Mosaic stitch, unlike most of the other stitches in this series, is not reversible. The back does not present a pleasing or repeating pattern. Mosaic is also not recommended for Aida because of the number of holes it must occupy on fabric. If one were to stitch mosaic stitch on Aida, each completed stitch would be 4 times the size of a regular cross stitch. On evenweave fabric, it will be the same size as a completed x.

For reference, here again is the diagram I've been flashing to the screen during our recent chats:

1 2 3

o o o

4 5 6

o o o

7 8 9

o o o

The o's in the above diagram represent the holes in a piece of evenweave fabric or linen covered by one cross stitch done over 2 fabric threads. The numbers are above the holes for reference.

1. To begin a mosaic stitch, bring your needle up through the hole numbered 4 in the diagram. This is a break from the normal practice of beginning a stitch on evenweave fabric in a hole in which there is a vertical fabric thread to the upper right.

2. Count 1 thread down and 1 thread to the left, taking your needle down through this hole--#8 on the diagram. Someone pointed out last week that it will be the same size as a 1/4 stitch on evenweave, although it won't be in the same place you'd do a quarter stitch.

3. Next, count 2 threads up and 1 thread to the left. Draw the needle up through this hole--#1.

4. Count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads down. Take your needle down through this hole, #9. You've just made another diagonal stitch \, which is the same length as the arm of a normal cross stitch and which lies parallel to the first little diagonal you did.

5. Now, count 2 threads up and 1 thread to the left. Bring your needle up through this hole, #2.

6. To complete the mosaic stitch, count 1 thread to the right and 1 thread down, drawing your needle down through this hole, #6. This creates another small diagonal which will lie parallel to the first two you stitched. And there you have a completed mosaic stitch. :-)

7. If you have a row of mosaic stitches, to begin the second mosaic stitch and those following, you'll have to invert the first little diagonal you did by beginning in hole #8 and finishing in hole #4. If you try to continue as you did with the first stitch, the last little diagonal in the first mosaic and the first diagonal in the second mosaic will be in the same fabric hole, and that won't work. Another solution to this problem could be to stitch a row of mosaic stitches from left to right rather than from right to left. If you do so, you won't run into this conflict. :-)

That wasn't bad, was it? Mosaic Stitch can also be worked in the opposite direction. The following instructions are for stitching the diagonals in this direction: /.

1. Using the diagram at the beginning of the instruction section above, bring your needle up through the hole numbered 8 in the diagram. This will be a hole with a horizontal fabric thread to its upper right.

2. Count 1 thread up and 1 thread to the right, drawing your needle down through this hole--#6--and creating a small diagonal stitch /.

3. Count 1 thread down and 2 threads to the left. Bring your needle up through this hole, #7.

4. Next, count 2 threads up and 2 threads to the right. Take your needle down through this hole, #3. You've just made a diagonal stitch / the same length as the arm of a cross stitch which will lie parallel to the first little diagonal you stitched.

5. Count down 1 thread and to the left 2 threads, drawing your needle down through this hole, #4.

6. To finish this mosaic stitch, count up 1 thread and to the right 1 thread. Draw your needle down through this hole, #2 in the diagram. You've done another small diagonal which will lie parallel to the two others you just stitched.

ALTERNATING MOSAIC STITCH

Once you can do both the mosaic stitches above, it's no problem to alternate them, as I suggest in the sampler. What this means is that you would do the first mosaic stitch in this direction: /, and the second mosaic stitch in this direction:\. And you would continue to alternate directions all the way across a row. The second row would begin with a mosaic stitch in this direction: \, and continue with one in the opposite direction /.

This is not, however, mandatory. :-) While I like the look of the alternating mosaic stitches, you may prefer something else. As with all stitches in the sampler, I encourage you to use the ones you like best.

ALTERNATING DOUBLE BACKSTITCH

I am repeating here the complete instructions for alternating double backstitch because we began it a week previous and completed it last week in both chats. :-) I would like to add one item of historical information I didn't give you during chat. If you've tried adb, you'll note it's worked in sections--3 completed stitches per section. Some authorities believe that because alternating double backstitch appeared on so many liturgical embroideries, the 3-stitch sections were meant to represent the Trinity.

This stitch is best worked on evenweave fabric or linen; however, it can be done on Aida, as well. If you try to work it on Aida, you will want to divide by 2 the number of threads counted in each step of the instructions. For example, if a direction says to count 2 threads to the right, on Aida you would count 1 thread to the right.

If you were with us when I taught double backstitch, you may remember I told you the name of this stitch comes from what appears on the back of the fabric as you stitch: a parallel row of backstitches. This is also true of alternating double backstitch, although you'll find a "twist" to this one. :-) What happens is that you will do 3 repeats of double backstitch. Then, you will turn the fabric over (yup, you read that correctly) and repeat the 3 sets of double backstitch on the back of the fabric. Very few stitches of which I am aware do this, so it's something very different. :-)

For this stitch, I found it necessary to alter the diagram I send to the screen at chat.

1 2 3 4 5

o o o o o

6 7 8 9 10

o o o o o

11 12 13 14 15

o o o o o

To Monday night chatters, I guarantee this one is correct. ;-) Each o represents a hole in a piece of evenweave fabric. The numbers above the holes are for reference.

1. First, bring your needle up through a hole in the fabric corresponding to hole #1 on the above diagram. It will be at the top of the row you're planning to stitch and should have a vertical fabric thread to its upper left. This helps the stitches remain stable.

2. Count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads down, drawing your needle down through this hole--#13 on diagram. This creates one arm of a regular cross stitch \. This is a compensation stitch which is done at the beginning and end of a row of double backstitch, and also in alternating double backstitch at the beginning and end of the 3 repeats.

3. Now, count 2 threads to the left, bringing your needle up through this hole--#11 on diagram. If you look at the back of your fabric at this point, you'll notice a single backstitch. :-)

4. Count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads up. Take your needle down through this hole--#3. You've just made a second diagonal / and completed a regular cross stitch. Although this x may not be crossed in the same direction in which you usually cross them, it needs to be done this way for this particular stitch for the pattern to work. :-) It is NOT necessary, IMHO, to alter the way you do regular cross stitches in the rest of your embroidered piece.

5. Here is where we do something different. :-) Count 2 theads to the left. Draw your needle up through this hole--#1 on diagram. This is the same hole in which you began your first diagonal stitch. If you turn your fabric over now, you'll notice you have 2 backstitches, one above the other.

6. Count 4 threads to the right and 2 threads down, taking your needle down through this hole--#15. This makes a diagonal stitch \ that is almost twice as long as the arm of a normal cross stitch. It also crosses the top portion of the second regular diagonal you did. This stitch is supposed to be a long one. :-)

7. Now, we're going to begin to repeat the 2 main stitches. Count 2 threads to the left. Bring your thread up through this hole--#13. On the back of the fabric, there will be another backstitch.

8. Next, count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads up, taking your needle down through this hole--#5. You've made a second diagonal / the same size as the arm of a regular x. :-) If you look closely, this is a repeat of the second stitch you did.

9. Before you continue stitching, in your mind, you'll need to shift the diagram so that hole #3 becomes hole #1. When you do so, the diagonal you created in step 8 will finish in hole #3 of the diagram. :::hoping this makes sense:::

10. After you've shifted the diagram in your mind, count 2 threads to the left, drawing the needle up through this hole--#1 on the shifted diagram. Again, this makes another backstitch on the back of the fabric.

11. Now, you'll be repeating the long diagonal stitch. Count 4 threads to the right and 2 threads down. Take the needle down through this hole--#15 on the shifted diagram.

12. You'll want to make a third regular diagonal /. Count 2 threads to the left, bringing your needle up through this hole--#13. Yet another backstitch appears on the back of the fabric.

13. To complete the first section of alternating double backstitch, you'll need to do a compensating stitch like the very first stitch you made. To do this, count 2 threads to the left. Draw your needle up through this hole--#3 on the diagram. One more backstitch appears on the back. :-)

14. Count 2 threads to the right and 2 threads down. Take your needle down through this hole--#15. You've finished the first section of a row of alternating double backstitch. :-)

So, what to do next? This stitch is unlike many others in that you're going to turn the fabric to the backside after completing the first section. You're also going to turn it so the top edge becomes the bottom edge of the fabric. You'll repeat the directions above from step 1. When you finish the second section, turn the fabric to the front side and complete the third section per the above instructions.

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