Keeping Fabric Clean

Before I went to Monday night Class Act Chat, I thought about our topic: Keeping Stitching Clean During Stitching and Cleaning Completed Stitchery. Because we've had some classes along this line before, it occurred to me it just might be too long a topic for a 1-hour chat. So Monday night, we focused on how to keep in-progress stitchery clean.

The first subject we discussed was keeping our hands clean to avoid getting dirt on the fabric or the stitching. Everyone was in agreement about washing her hands before picking up stitching. Some of the damage we see on older pieces of embroidery is the result of oils from the stitcher's skin which stayed on the fabric. The oils attract dust and other things in the air, and eventually, they can result in a stain. The issue of hand lotion arose, as well, because most lotions contain an oil or a petrolatum product. Both can result in greasy spots on needlework, so it's good to avoid them. Quite a few of the stitchers in attendance said they use nothing at all on their hands when they stitch. The good news for those of us with dry skin that may snag, especially on fibers like silk, is there are glycerin-based products available to use that are not supposed to damage the fabric. I use one on which the label is now missing, but it has a wonderful fragrance and does indeed soften my hands. One of the most highly touted is a product used on dairy farms: Udder Cream, which has a lanolin base as well as glycerin. It can be found in many stitchery shops, as well as in catalogues. Another product mentioned was Acid Mantle, which was available in the 70's and was recommended for embroiderers. Nobody seems to have heard of it recently, so we don't know whether it's still on the market. Some member said they can't use glycerin-based products. In that case, your hostie is at a loss but is wondering whether a dermatologist or pharmacist may be able to recommend something if you really need to soften your hands as you stitch. Someone else wondered about using thin examination gloves such as those found in doctors' offices to keep skin oils from getting on stitching. IMHO, this is a matter of preference, but I would have to learn the "feel" of stitching all over again if I tried to use gloves.

Another problem arose when one stitcher mentioned her daughter can't stitch because her hands perspire so much. She wondered what can be done about it because the fabric gets damp. One suggestion was to keep a small towel where she's stitching and to wipe her hands often. One of my thoughts is not to worry too much about this if the needlework can be washed after it's completed. If it's cleaned properly, most perspiration, etc., will come out. That's what we'll be discussing this coming week. :-)

We then talked about how everyone avoids dirty areas from appearing on their fabrics when they use hoops, scroll frames, Qsnaps, or stitch in the hand without any hoop or frame. Hoops have always been notorious for leaving dirty marks at the edges of the hoop. Most stitchers at chat told us they removed the hoops or at least loosen them when they aren't stitching. Several stitchers also believe plastic hoops are better than wooden ones when you're concerned about dirt accumulating. There are things you can do to hoops to help prevent dirty marks from forming. The point was made that wooden hoops can absorb oils from our skin. One stitcher said she tapes her hoops before using them. Others explained that they use tissue paper, leaving a small open area for the area being stitched. Yet another stitcher had read that lining the hoops with a lightweight fabric will help. And another uses plastic food wrap to line her hoops. If you are conservation-minded, I suggest you consider acid-free tissue paper, which is available, or a cotton fabric like muslin.

The stitchers who use Qsnaps told us their fabric doesn't get dirty from the Qsnaps, and they don't seem to have to take any extraordinary steps to avoid dirt or oil buildup.

Several of the people at chat who use scroll frames said the only place any kind of dirt accumulates is on the bottom of the stitching because that's where their hands touch the fabric. One suggestion offered for that problem was to use a floor stand with the scroll frames to avoid having to handle the stitchery itself.

Then, there are those of us who stitch in the hand, meaning we don't use hoops, Qsnaps, or scroll frames to hold our work taut. I am one of these, by personal preference. (As I've said before, I believe there is no one "right" way to handle our stitching. I think each of us should use whatever she/he chooses and is most comfortable with.) Obviously, stitching in the hand means we're going to be touching the fabric a great deal. Many of us who use this method seemed to agree that on larger pieces, we roll the fabric from the top so what we are handling is the back side. One stitcher mentioned she uses tissue paper when she rolls her work like this. A chatter asked what we do when we're stitching pieces too small to roll. Usually, I don't do anything special. My rationale is if the stitchery is small, it'll be finished more quickly than would a large one, and so it won't be handled as much.

Chat then turned to how we store our projects when we aren't working on them because they can accumulate dirt just from lying around. Quite a few stitchers use plastic zipper bags. There was some concern expressed that zip lock bags don't allow the fabric and fibers to breathe. There are zipper bags available now with holes...many use them to store vegetables. Several members said they make small holes in the regular zipper bags for air flow. Another member mentioned she uses archival zip lock bags to store film and thinks this would work for stitching, as well. Although I don't profess to be an expert, I think short-term storage in zipper bags won't hurt needlework. I choose, however, to err on the side of caution and try to use a storage "system" that seems to me to be conservation-minded. Because many of our fabrics and fibers are made of natural materials, I like to store them in something of a similar fabric. So I choose to use old white cotton pillow cases even for short-term storage. While pillow cases wouldn't stop a spill from getting on my needlework, they do help prevent dust, etc., from collecting. And I'm fortunate to have a whole pile of old white cotton pillow cases I picked up for next to nothing at a garage sale.

Our discussion of storage gave rise to the question, "Do we fold or roll our needlework when storing it?" It seems most of us roll it. I do, and there's a good reason why. :-) Any creases in fabric tend to collect dirt. There have been times I've purchased a yard or more of xs fabric that had to be cut off a bolt. If the bolt hasn't been stored in a clean area or covered, I've noticed the fold in the middle of the fabric can be dirty. I always roll my fabric, even when I'm storing it for a short period of time as I'm stitching. When I finish something (rare these days), if I'm not going to be able to frame or finish it immediately, I use the pillow cases for long-term storage, too, and I always roll the fabric. Also, creases in fabric are often very difficult to get out, even if they're ironed. Rolling helps avoid this problem, even while I'm stitching. Speaking of creases, one member told us a good way to remove them is to freeze the needlework, let it thaw, and then iron it.

Towards the end of chat, we began talking about what to do to remove stains or spots that may accidentally get on our stitching as we're working. This is a good lead-in for next week's chat about cleaning our stitchery after we've finished stitching, so I'll include stain removal info then.

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