|
|
|
||||||||
Anchoring floss when one begins a new color or changes colors can be done in a number of different ways. Before I discuss each of them, I'd like to point out there are some schools of thought that believe there's only one proper way to do this; however, IMHO, the best way is the one that's most comfortable for you. :-) Also, many stitchers use more than one method, depending upon the piece they're stitching.
There are very few absolute "no-nos" when it comes to cross stitch. One of them is that we never use knots to anchor floss. The philosophy behind this is that if we use knots, there will be unwanted bumps when the needlework is cleaned, ironed, and mounted. I confess to having knotted floss early in my days of counted cross stitching because the magazine in which I found my first chart said to do so. This was more than 28 years ago, before counted cross stitch had become popular again in this country, and I believe the people who published the magazine simply didn't know any better. And that's the same place I found directions that said to use masking tape to keep fabric from raveling, to use sharp crewel needles, as well as to use glue to mount. Well, we've all come a long way since then. :-)
The first method we discussed at both Class Act Chats was anchoring floss under other stitches already finished. This is done by slipping the needle under no more than 3 stitches and drawing the floss through until there is very little tail left on the back of the fabric. This is probably also the most often used way stitchers anchor floss. It's simple and it's easy to do. If the tails left on the back are too long, the stitcher can snip them off after all the stitching is done. Can there be problems with this? Yup, there can be. If you happen to be stitching on Aida and anchor your floss under stitches of a different color, odds are you won't be able to see the new color through the fabric where it's anchored. I would recommend being careful, though, with dark colors. On evenweave fabric or Aida, however, because there are more holes in the fabric and it's easier to see through to the back, one must be very careful about anchoring under other stitches. On these fabrics, it's very easy for the new color to show through where it's secured. Solution? What quite a few of us do is to leave a longer-than-usual tail when we begin a new color. As we begin the stitches in the new color, we catch the floss tail under these stitches as we go until it's secured by 3 stitches. The rest of the tail can be snipped off. It takes a little more patience to do this, but it's worth it. :-)
What if you have a stitch all by itself far away from other stitching? In this instance, you have no other stitches under which to secure your floss. Using the loop method, which is described later in this article, is one possibility. What I do with single stitches is this: I draw the needle up through the hole where the stitch will begin, leaving a longer-than-normal tail. Then, I do the first arm of the x. When I get this far, the needle is on the backside of the fabric. I'll be making a little stitch on the back to come up through the hole to begin the next arm, so I catch the floss tail in it. After I've completed the x, I just run the floss under that little stitch on the back again. I do usually wait until I've done all the other stitching on a piece to work the single xes because I don't want them to pull out.
If you are concerned about your stitches pulling out, there's something you can do in addition to catching it under 3 other stitches that will secure the floss. After you've run the floss under those stitches and before you bring the needle up through the fabric to begin your new floss, draw your needle through the last stitch on the back under which you secured your floss. By doing so, you'll be making a little whipstitch that will ensure your floss doesn't pull out. :-)
There are two kinds of away waste knots you can use to anchor floss. Yup, I said knots...that evil "k" word. ;-) The name says it all--away because they are done away from the area you're stitching, and waste because you get rid of them later.
The first of these requires you to make a knot in the long tail of your floss. You will draw your needle through a fabric hole 2-2 1/2 inches away from the point at which you're going to begin stitching. You'll do your stitching, and when you're finished, you'll unthread your needle. Next, you'll snip off the knot that kept the floss from pulling too far through. On the back of the fabric, you'll have a fairly long floss tail. Thread your needle with this tail and run it under 3 stitches to anchor. People at both chats wondered whether this wasn't a waste of floss and whether just running the floss under several stitches isn't enough. After all, you're getting the same result you would running the floss under. I've been thinking about this all week because I know some of the leading authorities on counted thread recommend using away waste knots. The only reason that makes sense to me right now is using this kind of away waste knot allows the stitcher later to anchor under stitches of the same color. If any of you who read this have further insights, please let me know. :-)
The second kind of away waste knot does make more sense, at least to me. Again, you'll knot the long end of your floss before you begin stitching. Then, you'll want to look at your chart to decide in which direction you'll be stitching a row. You'll want to draw the needle down through a fabric hole in the same row of holes that will be occupied by your stitches, but you'll do so at least an inch beyond where the last stitch will be. You'll take your needle back up through the hole in which you'll start the row and do your stitches. If you've placed the waste knot correctly, as you stitch, the long floss tail on the backside will be caught under the xes. When you're finished, just snip off the knot, turn the fabric over, and trim off the leftover tail. It seems to me this method saves steps. :-)
There are also knotless waste knots. One chatter asked why the name looked like an oxymoron. My response was that it is. ;-) Simply put, a knotless waste knot is done the same as either of the above-mentioned waste knots with the exception that you don't knot the floss before you begin. Without the knot, you'll have to be a little more careful to be sure you don't pull the tail too short.
The final way we discussed to secure floss is to use the loop method. This is favored by many stitchers who believe it makes the backs of their work look much neater than do all those little tails. :-) The loop method can be used only with an even number of strands of floss--2, 4, etc. For the example I'm going to give you here, we'll assume you're using 2 strands of floss. :-) First, you'll want to cut your floss twice as long as you normally would. Then, you'll strip out one strand. Fold the strand in half so the two ends are even and there's a loop at the other end. Now, thread your needle. I do so using the free ends because it's easier for me to do. The longer tail of the floss should be the one containing the loop. You'll begin to stitch by drawing your needle up through the fabric in the hole that will be occupied by the first stitch. If you've done this correctly, the looped end of the floss will remain to the back of the fabric. Now, you'll need to be careful not to pull the loop through to the front of the fabric. You're going to make the first arm of your x. After you've done so and the needle is to the backside of the fabric, insert it into the loop. Gently pull the floss through the loop until it's tight. You'll want to be careful not to pull it too tight, though, so it looks like your other stitches. Now, your floss is anchored, and you can continue stitching.
A word about the loop method. I've heard many times that judges in some of the major needlework competitions will either subtract from a score or disqualify a piece of stitchery on which the loop method has been used. I've been trying to find out why; however, I haven't discovered the rationale behind this yet. Again, if you have insight, I'd appreciate hearing from you. We've discussed entering competitions in a past Class Act Chat, and I'd suggest you either find out what's required beforehand or use one of the other anchoring methods so you won't be disappointed. Experienced needlework judges absolutely do know, even without seeing it, what the back of a piece of needlework looks like. In some competitions, glass is not allowed so the judges can get up close and personal, and they do indeed use their Dazor lamps to examine the stitchery. I would suggest this depends upon the quality of the competition you are entering. But if you're stitching for yourself and for enjoyment, do what makes you most comfortable. :-)
Copyright 1997 Jill Martz
Produced with Paint Shop Pro, Pattern Maker Pro, and AOLPress