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We Make History: An Introduction to Ladies' Clothing of the Regency Era
We Make History

An Introduction to Ladies Clothing
of the Regency Era
by
Lord Scott
The era spanning from the 1790s to the 1820s saw an emphasis on elegance and simplicity which was motivated by the democratic ideals of the French Republic but which looked back to classical Greece and Rome for its fashion inspiration. Waists were high, the emphasis was vertical and lightweight white fabrics were at the height of fashions which were so simple that the lady of the time often wore only three garments; a chemise, a corset and a gown! This was an incredible contrast to the preceding and succeeding periods with their horizontal emphases, multiple layers and often heavy fabrics.

Chemise:
The chemise was the only undergarment popular during the era. It was simply constructed of linen or cotton (usually white) and was much like some lightweight modern nightgowns.

Corset:
The corset was worn over the chemise, was typically made of linen, laced in the back, was “boned” for firmness and had a long wooden or whalebone busk in the front to create the “lift and separate” support necessary for Regency fashions. A lady wearing a proper Regency style corset will likely have flawless posture.

Dress (Gown):
The dress was at least ankle length and had a very high “empire” waist. Some scooped quite low in the bodice while others were very moderate. Some had trains in the rear which were pinned up while dancing. The sleeves could be short or wrist length as each style was popular at different times. The fabric was usually light in color with solid white being the favorite of the era. Small patterns and vertical stripes were also used. Good fabric choices would be lightweight such as cotton batiste, lightweight cotton muslin or a silk that isn’t stiff but has a good “drape” to it. Sometimes a very light semi-transparent overdress was worn on top of the main article. White cotton voile or chiffon might be good fabrics for such an option. Trim could be in the form of piping, metallic braid or ribbon.

Spencer Jacket:
The Spencer Jacket was an item peculiar to the Regency period which went well with the empire waist gown. It was very fitted, had either a standing or flat collar and could have short or long sleeves. The bottom of the jacket conformed to the waist of the gown. Spencer Jackets were commonly made of linen though wool, cotton or silk could be used.

Stockings:
Stockings were often silk or cotton and came up to thigh level.

Shoes:
Low shoes similar to modern lace-up ballet slippers were used as were leather, lace-up shoes with a heel.

Hats and Bonnets:
The poke bonnet was the very popular, signature headwear for ladies of the period. It was long and scoop shaped, sometimes compared unfavorably to a coal scuttle in appearance. Critics of the era’s fashions (often older folks who longed for the “good old days” of the 18th century) represented women in both satire and cartoon as running about in their underwear (lightweight gowns) with comically long headwear (poke bonnets) hiding their faces!
Straw “cartwheel” hats, popular during the previous era, were still known and would have a resurgence in popularity in the decades to come. Turbans and ostrich feathers were quite in vogue for a time, particularly for formal occasions, as were diadems.

Hair:
Ladies’ hair was quite fashionable when long and piled high on the head in a classically inspired style with hanging wisps, curly bangs and ringlets about the face.

Accessories:
Small purses which shut by means of a drawstring were popular. Jewelry was worn but for most women tended to be less ostentatious than that of the 18th century. For example, a small gold, silver or pewter cross on a short, simple chain worn around the neck was considered very tasteful and was the height of fashion during the first two decades of the 19th century. In fact, Jane Austen herself wore just such an item.

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