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An Introduction to
Gentlemen's Clothing of the Regency Era
by
Lord Scott
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The roots of gentlemen's fashions of the Regency era traced back primarily to two sources. One was the equestrian clothing of the late 18th century and the other was the radical new designs which came out of the French Revolution. Though most clothing of the era appears to be quite formal and conservative to us (and in fact one could argue that modern men's formal and business attire trace their roots to this era), in actuality there were some very abrupt departures from what had developed over the past century and a half during the baroque and rococo periods. Breeches (which had been standard men's attire in one form or another for at least two centuries) were gradually abandoned in favor of pantaloons and trousers. Bright colors and gaudy accoutrements gave way to the new idea (propogated by persons such as fashion icon Beau Brummel) that a gentleman ought to be tasteful, subtle and subdued, leaving brilliancy in color and accesories for the most part to the ladies. With the sad exceptions of the hippie and disco eras this philosophy has pretty much carried forward even to the present day.
The following information is introductory in nature and will help you to gain a feel for the time. But as with any time period, in order to accomplish an accurate portrayal you will need to do further research based on a more exact time, place and type of person.
Tailcoat:
The tailcoat was the de rigueur article of clothing for any man of at least middle class standards. It was high in the back of the neck, fitted in the back, chest and abdomen, had wide “M notch” lapels and the distinctive long “clawhammer” tails. It could be either single or double breasted and could be worn open or closed. It was cut high enough in front so that even when closed a strip of the waistcoat could be seen beneath. This cut was in the form of an arch earlier in the period and was more horizontal later.
The tailcoat was usually made of wool. There were many color options for daywear but for evenings conservative darker ones were most fashionable, a trend which has continued to this day.
Waistcoat:
The waistcoat was made from wool, linen or silk and could be a solid but was often a brocade, stripe or pattern. It had a high stand-up collar and sometimes wide turn-back lapels, especially earlier in the period. The waistcoat extended below the front of the tailcoat and covered the top of the trousers or breeches.
Shirt:
The shirt was usually of linen or cotton. It was long and loose fitting with off the shoulder sleeves and a high standing collar that extended up sometimes even above the jaw line. The shirt had a slit in the front and pulled on over the head. It was mid-thigh to knee length and was quite often the only undergarment. Ruffles at the sleeves were unpopular during this period (viewed as old-fashioned and undemocratic) but ruffles at the chest were still an option.
Breeches, Pantaloons and Trousers:
Breeches were gradually fading out during this period. For a time they remained the proper item for evening wear then were relegated to only very formal occasions and then survived only as “court” apparel for certain royal occasions. Breeches could be made of wool, cotton, linen or silk with the latter best for the most formal events. They tended to have a higher waist in front and a little less baggy seat than the late 18th century version. However, they still had a drop front, were fitted in the thighs and buckled or buttoned just below the knees.
Pantaloons were popularized early in this period by French revolutionaries. They had a drop front, were around mid-calf length and were worn exceedingly snug.
Trousers became commonplace during the Regency era and we still wear their descendants today. The trousers had a high waist that came up at least to the navel. They were drop front and were held up by means of suspenders (aka “braces”). They were worn much looser than pantaloons though they were often fitted down at the ankles, sometimes using gussets so that they could come down quite low onto the shoes. Trousers could be of wool, linen or cotton. Though initially only appropriate for daywear they eventually gained acceptance as evening attire as well.
Neckcloth:
The neckcloth was a necessary accessory. Typical of this era was a long, narrow strip of linen or silk which wrapped several times around the neck and was then tied in front. Many forms of tying were popular, some considered more formal and others most suitable for casual wear.
Hats:
A very tall, straight top hat with a narrow curled up brim was the height of fashion during much of this period. The bicorn was high, wide and of shallow depth. It was popularized as a military fashion and was worn by Napoleon, though some civilians wore it too. Many specialized styles were in use as well such as the flat, round hats of sailors, the shakos of soldiers or the coonskin caps of American frontiersmen.
Hair:
Men’s hairstyles of the Regency era tended to be short on the sides and in the back and longer on top where the hair was often combed upwards for height. Sometimes the hair was cut short all the way around and combed forward on the sides. Short curly bangs and curls at the sides of the face above the ears were also fashionable. Sideburns (not overly long) were common but beards and moustaches would not be for several more decades.
Shoes, Boots and Stockings:
Buckled shoes went out and lace up shoes came in. Most shoes would be black and of leather. Both low cut shoes and ankle high bootees were known. Boots were high and of black or brown leather, very similar to modern English riding boots. Stockings were long and of wool, linen, cotton or silk.
Accessories:
Canes, pocket watches and wallets of leather or fabric all enjoyed wide usage.
Note: This article and this web page are the copyrighted property of the author and may not be copied or reproduced except by express written permission.
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