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Hiking The Appalachian Trail With Joe Ward Of Jacksonville, Ga. (Pts 41 & 42)

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CAPTION 341

Smoky Joe Ward has now made it to the state of Maine. But he is greeted by "the hardest mile on the Appalachian Trail." It seems to him more like an obstacle course. But things are bound to get better so he presses on hoping that he will see no more miles like the one he has just encountered. (See article.) [Photo credit: Maine and the Appalachian Trail]

CAPTION 342

Smoky Joe Ward is now conquering the mountains of Maine. His boots are getting a little worn but his spirits are high. He is not far from his goal of finishing his journey. But he keeps running into unexpected situations. Like being stopped by a law enforcement officer. The Trail is full of surprises and he looks forward to the next ones. Or, so he thinks. (See article.)

No.341

Hiking The Appalachian Trail With Joe Ward Of Jacksonville, Ga. (Part 41)

This is the 341st article of a series written to celebrate the history and events of old Jacksonville, Georgia, in the seventh year after its first Heritage Day celebration. This article is compiled by Julian Williams. Old Jacksonville, Georgia is located on website
http://hometown.aol.com/jacksonvillega/myhomepage/index.html

Smoky Joe Ward knew he was probably about to take his last prolonged rest. Or so he thought. He figured he would be too anxious to take another extended breather once he hit the trail for Maine. He was getting close to his goal. One more day in New Hampshire should give him a reservoir of strength for the trek ahead:

"Saturday, 8/28/1999 - Day 158 - 0 miles today, total 1862.3, average 11.78. Stayed in Gorham, New Hampshire, today and rested. Another day with no hiking."

Joe had made his choice - a heavier load of food going out to save stopping so often. But he knew he was carrying extra weight.

"Sunday, 8/29/1999 - Day 159 - 11.8 miles today, 1874.1 total, average 11.78. Tough hike out of town with eight days food supply. I was going to stop in Andover, before Rangeley, so I wouldn't have to carry so much, but I don't want to lose another day."

Smoky Joe was a little let down as he crossed the line of the final state - Maine. His journey had been a long one but he thought elation at this point might be premature because he still had a long way to go. He had learned much earlier - you don't count your biddies before they hatch. You make one hard step at the time and if you make enough of them you will get there. At this point he knew he had to hang in there. No mishaps, no getting lost, no miscalculations. It was the final leg - and a long one.

"Monday, 8/30/1999 - Day 160 - 9.6 miles today, 1883.7 total, average 11.77. Stayed in a shelter last night by a pretty lake. I saw some leeches in the lake while I was filtering water. It was windy and cool this morning. In the fifties. I saw a moose on the opposite side of the lake. I hope the pictures come out. I crossed the Maine state line today. I've been trying to imagine for five months how it would feel to finally get here. It was a good feeling but not as special as I had thought. I guess I'm thinking about the 276.5 miles left."

Smoky Joe was thinking about what was up ahead. He had heard of the "toughest mile on the Appalachian Trail" from other hikers. He anxiously approached this challenge knowing it would take some doing to get through it. It was going to be more like an obstacle course than anything else.

"Tuesday, 8/31/1999 - Day 161 - 5.1 miles today, 1888.8 total, average 11.73. I went through the Maloosuc Notch today. It's supposed to be the hardest mile on the Appalachian Trail. It's full of boulders that you have to climb over, under and sometimes through. The openings are so small that you have to take your pack off to get through. It took me two hours to do that mile. 261 miles to go."

As Smoky Joe looked back in the direction of Maloosuc Notch he hoped there would be no more places like that! But pressing on he found it more pleasant.

"Wednesday, 9/1/1999 - Day 162 - 10.4 miles today, 1899.2 total, average 11.72. It's the first day of September and I'm in Maine. The weather is almost perfect. It's cool in the mornings and at night. Still a little warm during the day while hiking, but if I stop for a break I need another shirt on."

Smoky Joe was enjoying his hike now. He was seeing some things, had companions and was able to reach water. It couldn't get much better.

"Thursday, 9/2/1999 - Day 163 - 11.9 miles today, 1911.1 total, average 11.72. It's 1:00 PM and I'm taking a break by Surplus Lake about halfway up Wyman Mountain. I thought about taking a swim but decided to just rest. It's only another four miles to camp. Another ten-mile day but I'm enjoying the pace. The last few days I've been camping with "Corsican", "Mooseburger" and "Old Scot". Ended up doing more than ten miles today. There was no water where I planned to camp. I had to come further down the mountain to Sawyer Notch and a nice stream. I saw a big bull moose this afternoon. He had a rack about three feet wide. I hope I got a good picture. 249.1 miles to go."

But Joe found out, as he had before - you don't take water for granted.

"Friday, 9/3/1999 - Day 164 - 11.4 miles today, 1922.5 total, average 11.72. There's no water at the shelter again. I had to carry extra water a long way. I thought Maine was supposed to have lots of water. I stayed in the shelter tonight instead of the tent. Only one other person here. 237.7 miles to go."

Appropriately, Joe now camped at a place where the day fit the name.

"Saturday, 9/4/1999 - Day 165 - 8.3 miles today, 1930.8 total, average 11.70. Camped on the edge of a pretty lake - Sabbath Day Pond. Supposed to be loons on it but I haven't heard one yet. It's just a little over nine miles to Rangeley for food drop."

Joe was now entering the day the rest of us observe as the Sabbath. Naturally, it would not do to agree on this, either. That just seems to be the nature of man.

"Sunday, 9/5/1999 - Day 166 - 9.4 miles today, 1940.2 total, average 11.68. Heard a wolf last night very early. It was a beautiful sound. I also heard some coyotes. I'm staying in Rangeley at the Farmhouse Inn for $20.00 a night. The blind man who hiked the trail stayed here when he came through and a TV station did a story on him."

Well, it looks like Smoky Joe ran right into Labor Day! This would slow him up a little more.

"Monday, 9/6/1999 - Day 167 - 0 miles today, 1940.2 total, average 11.61. Another "0" day in town. I forgot about the holiday so I have to wait until tomorrow for the post office to open. Not much to do in town and the inn is a mile and a half away so I don't know what I'll do all day. Rest I guess. 220 miles to go."

With the spare time on his hands Joe decided to see what he had in his pack that he could send home. He found something.

"Monday, 9/6/1999 - Card - Momma and Johnny, This is an old post card. I went over Mount Washington a few weeks ago. The small building is one of the huts you pay to stay in. I think I stopped and had some coffee at this one. You can see the trail on the left. Should be in Monson on 9/16/1999. 220 miles to do. Joe."

But Smoky Joe was wanting to see the end of Labor Day. He needed to get on The Trail again. Adventure might be just around the corner.

Join us next week as we continue our hike of the Appalachian Trail with Smoky Joe Ward of Jacksonville, Ga.

Credits: Info of Joe Ward; Info of John David Harrell; Appalachian Trail info; New Hampshire and Maine info; personal notes; other sources.

No.342

Hiking The Appalachian Trail With Joe Ward Of Jacksonville, Ga. (Part 42)

This is the 342nd article of a series written to celebrate the history and events of old Jacksonville, Georgia, in the seventh year after its first Heritage Day celebration. This article is compiled by Julian Williams. Old Jacksonville, Georgia is located on website
http://hometown.aol.com/jacksonvillega/myhomepage/index.html

Smoky Joe Ward woke up the next morning not knowing he would be taking up time with the questions of a Maine law enforcement officer. Or meeting two people who would be attracting the attention of this law enforcement officer.

"Tuesday, 9/7/1999 - Day 168 - 1.8 miles today, 1942 total, average 11.55. Didn't get out of Rangeley early enough today to make it over the Saddleback Mountains, which are supposed to be pretty tough. I stopped at the first shelter out of town. It's supposed to rain the next few days, so I'm trying to stop at shelters. I got a ride from the Farmhouse Inn back to the trail with a young couple (Doug and Chris) who are traveling around the country. They're living in their van and looking for work along the way. They had recently been working on a horse farm somewhere. They were nice people, but pretty rough looking. They had tattoos, long hair, etc. Their van was pretty ragged also. On the way back to the trail a deputy sheriff stopped us and checked Doug out pretty good. I was afraid I might get to stay in Rangeley a little longer, but he let us go. They were very interested in the trail and walked with me a little ways. The owners of the Farmhouse Inn were good people. I ate with them one night. Rick and Meg Godaire, Farmhouse Inn, PO Box 165, Route 4, Rangeley, Maine 04970. Phone 207-864-5805."

Joe realized the long stopover had caused him to wax long (and in detail) about the new world around him. But he also knew his energies had to be redirected to The Trail again. Talking and describing would not get him to Mount Katahdin. He had to push on.

"Johnny's going to get tired of typing the notes for this day. I've had so much time at the shelter that I'm getting longwinded. I've had a good rest since Sunday afternoon. Two days in Rangeley and a short hike today. I'm ready for the last push to Katahdin."

But the resolve was there. Smoky Joe started picking 'em up and putting 'em down. He eyed the great mountains in front of him and despite the rain, he left those high hills of Maine behind him. He was on his way.

"Wednesday, 9/8/1999 - Day 169 - 8.9 miles today, 1950.9 total, average 11.54. Hard rain last night. It's good to be in a shelter. Overcast and threatening to rain all day, so I'm in another shelter tonight. I went over some of the last few major climbs today - Saddleback and The Horn, but I couldn't see much because of the clouds."

Joe is lining up mountains now much the same as a shopper makes out a shopping list. And he is anticipating checking them off as he clears them. His schedule of time and distance is ever on his mind. He knows that the discipline of the trail matters all. There are no excuses - just executions. He must keep executing. He must keep on the schedule.

"Thursday, 9/9/1999 - Day 170 - 8 miles today, 1958.0 total, average 11.52. Still getting cloudy weather from the hurricane on the coast. Only sprinkles so far today. I'm tenting tonight because I sleep better than in a shelter. I'll probably have to pack a wet tent in the morning. Only a few big mountains left before I get into some easier terrain - Spaulding, Sugarloaf, and Crocker mountains. I'll do those tomorrow. Bigelow Mountain should be the last one for a while. I'm looking forward to doing more miles each day. If I had stayed on my original schedule I'd only have ten days left. 201.3 miles left."

In spite of his enthusiasm, the physical dampness was upon him again and Smoky Joe decided it was time for another break. In a little bit there would be no time or provisions for relaxing in civilized surroundings. Just wilderness.

"Friday, 9/10/1999 - Day 171 - 13.5 miles today, 1972.4 total, average 11.53. Rained all day. Hitched a ride into Stratton for the night. $20.00 for a private room. 187.8 miles left."

But through all the rain, focusing on the schedule, and the awareness of "the wilderness" before him, Joe felt good. His mind was taking it all in and he felt he was up to doing this last memorable leg of his journey in Maine. Little did he know that Canada was not far from him.

"Saturday, 9/11/1999 - Day 172 - 8 miles today, 1980.4 total, average 11.51. Camped on Bigelow Mountain. It's the last major climb I'll have until I get to Katahdin. It's a very pretty mountain. I didn't realize how close I am to the Canadian border. Only 20 or 30 miles I think. There are some other campers here and most of them are speaking French. I almost can't believe it, but I may be able to finish in two weeks."

After bidding 'Adieu' to his French compeers, Smoky Joe headed out, not knowing that he would run right in on a group with eating on their minds. And he was happy to be much obliged for their warm invitation which included a great helping of those tasty rations.

"Sunday, 9/12/1999 - Day 173 - 14.6 miles today, 1995 total, average 11.53. Hiked down off Bigelow Mountain this morning leaving the toughest portion of the trail behind me. Maybe I'll make some good time now, unless it's so pretty that I want to go slow. Just after getting down off the mountain, the trail crossed a road. The Maine Appalachian Trail Club was having a cookout for thru hikers there. I ate way too much because I still had to hike six miles, but it was good. I crossed another paved road after that and it had 2000 miles written in big yellow print right in the middle of the road. By my math I've been only 1995 miles, but that's close enough. I had to take my boots off to wade a stream today. I may be seeing a lot of that. I'm camped by a pretty lake tonight."

Now, folks, Smoky Joe Ward had a way of being profoundly prophetic. Yes, he was going to see lots of "that" and a whole bunch more before this little trip was over.

Join us next week as we continue our hike of the Appalachian Trail with Smoky Joe Ward of Jacksonville, Ga.

Credits: Info of Joe Ward; Info of John David Harrell; Appalachian Trail info; New Hampshire and Maine info; personal notes; other sources.

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