Mauritius 2001

30th April – 12th May 2001

My wife Angela and I joined our friends Ann & Brian Manning on a 12 day package holiday flying Air Mauritius from London Heathrow. We stayed half board at the comfortable Beachcomber Hotel of Le Victoria at Pointe aux Pimentes in the tourist area in the north-west of the island. Serious birdwatching was confined to trips to the National Park for a total of only some 6 hours, not always in the best of weather.

The second largest of the three Mascarene islands, Mauritius lies at 20°S, 57°E and is some 860 miles east of Madagascar. The island has an area of 1865 sq. km and was forested and uninhabited until European settlement in the 17th century. Much land is now cultivated for sugar cane and indigenous wildlife is confined to forest remnants in the hilly south-west where there is a National Park. The island became a British colony for 150 years. The present Republic of Mauritius is a stable democracy and a member of the British Commonwealth. The Republic includes the island of Rodrigues 200 km. Further east.

PEOPLE, SECURITY AND MONEY

The friendly and hospitable people are an harmonious blend of Indian, African, European and Chinese. The population numbers 1.2 million. The island feels generally safe but some marihuana is grown in remote areas and an encounter with drug producers could be dangerous. Also stay away from quiet areas after dark. Creole (a sort of hybrid French) is the most widely spoken language, French is widely used and English, the official language, is widely understood. The currency is the Mauritian Rupee, 38 Rupees to the Ł Sterling tourist rate 2001. Money can be changed at the airport (the most convenient venue), banks and hotels. Tourist area prices seem comparable with similar goods/services in UK. Local shop and market prices are much cheaper. Plenty of cheap food in local shops. Credit cards accepted in tourist areas.

The wettest summer period January to March sees high humidity, 200mm (8in) monthly rainfall and average daily temperature of 30°C on the coast; cooler at higher altitudes. The lower temperatures, humidity and rainfall from May to October make for more comfort but the birds are less easy to find than in the summer rains. In May, we had sunny intervals and some showers.

The island is served by Air Mauritius, British Airways and several regional and international airlines. Cheap flight deals will probably be on offer. Car hire was some Ł40 a day for up to 6 days for a Fiat Punto (plus petrol 50p per litre) from Hertz. Lower rates could be expected from local operators. I took taxis for some Ł40 half daily to access National Park sites. Roads were mostly satisfactorily surfaced and graded but with some sharp bends. Signposts were intermittent and not always enough. Driving habits were quite bearable.

Inoculations are necessary; see your doctor. Local advice suggests that malaria tablets are not needed. Your doctor may advise them for rural non-tourist areas, however. Also check the Malaria Advice Line on 0891 600 350

“Birds of the Indian Ocean” by Sinclair & Legrand, pub.1998 Struick Publishers, Cape Town ISBN 1 86872 035 7 is the essential new field guide for the region.

“Seabirds” by Harrison, pub. 1983 Christopher Helm ISBN 0 7136 3510 X will be useful for seawatches or pelagics.

Maps are also best bought before departure. They could be a little out of date with some roads on the island recently extended and upgraded, but the maps on the island are also out of date at the time of writing.

Reports by Babbington 12/94 and Vermeulen 11/95 from Foreign Birdwatching Reports & Information Service were most useful but there are some changes in site information and status.

Mauritian Wildlife Appeal Fund, Tamarin. Unfortunately I cannot find my note of their number.

Freddie Loenig, Mauritian Wildlife Appeal Fund, Grand River Noire. 438 6832

Mauritian Wildlife Service, Port Louis 211 1749

THE MAUTIRIAN WILDLIFE APPEAL FUND

Contact the MWAF at Tamarin for permission to visit the rare bird captive breeding centre at Grand River Noire. The centre is on the seaward side of the west coast road. Opposite shops towards the northern end of Grand River Noire, turn westward at the signpost for “police station”. Down an alley on the right just past the police station, the centre is on the left behind high green metal gates. Two released Mauritius Kestrels have returned to nest there for several years and could often be seen around a tree in the compound. The Mauritius Kestrel captive breeding programme has been highly successful. The wild population of only 4 birds in 1973 has now recovered to 700 released or 2nd and 3rd generation birds. The endemic Pink Pigeon is another similar success story. Currently bred at the centre for release are now the highly endangered Echo Parakeet whose population shows the first signs of a recovery as well as the recovering Mauritian Fruit Bat and the still endangered Rodrigues Fruit Bat.

At MWAF Grand River Noire I met Frederique (Freddie) Loenig. Freddie kindly took me with her to Lower Gorges near the National Park Visitor Centre to feed released Mauritius Kestrels which now breed in the wild. However, MWAF staff will not currently offer to guide visitors as has sometimes been the case in the past. Several lines of enquiry failed to turn up a wildlife guide. I therefore had to do my birdwatching in the customary solo fashion but with less success than usual. It was not the ideal season for birdwatching and I allowed myself insufficient time in the National Park.

POINTE AUX PIMENTES We walked the beach and the areas around and behind the

beachfront hotels from Pointe aux Pimentes to Citron River for an hour or more early

most days. Striated Heron, Brown Noddy, Curlew, Mauritius Grey White-eye,

Mascarene Swiftlet and introduced passerines and doves.

BLACK RIVER GORGES NATIONAL PARK Starting point is La Petrin National Park

Information Centre where maps are available.

1. From the east/airport: Leave the northbound M1 “motorway” around 15km from the

airport and go left to the west and south towards Souillac. After 4 or 5km, turn right or

west for Grand Bois and Grand Bassin. Go beyond Grand Bassin to the junction at La

Petrin where the Information Centre is to the left.

2. From the north: Leave the southbound M1 by the Phoenix brewery and go south

through Vacoas towards Souillac. The large reservoir Mare aux Vacoas is seen to the

left around 15 km from the M1. The Information Centre is on the right after another 4 or

3. From the west: From the west coast road at Case Noyale turn inland (eastward) for

Chamarel and beyond towards La Petrin, passing the Gorges Viewpoint on the left

some after 10 km. After another 6km turn left at a “T” junction to go north to the

Information Centre on the left after some 2km.

Bassin Blanc. A volcanic crater lake in the forest towards the southern edge of the

National Park. Take the road due south from La Petrin Information Centre for 5km.

Bassin Blanc is on the right at a gravel layby off the road as it descends with sharp

bends. Birdwatch from the road for up to 1km above and below the lake. With the

former track now improved and regraded to a good tarmac surface, there is much more

disturbance from passing traffic and from car occupants entering the forest edge to

pick fruit. I was not visiting at the ideal season. I saw White-tailed Tropicbirds,

Mauritius Grey Wite-eye, Mauritius Bulbul and Mascarene Swiftlet. Site specialities of

Mauritius Fody and Mauritius Olive White-eye may now be less easy to find and with

populations possibly in a decline. Also seek Mascarene Paradise Flycatcher and

Mascarene Martin here.

Black River Gorges Viewpoint. Go south from La Petrin Information Centre and take

the right turn (westward) towards Chamarel after 2km. The viewpoint is on the right

(north) side of the road after another 6km. It looks north over the Park. I saw

White-tailed Tropicbird. Mauritius Kestrel may also be seen hunting over the trees and

endemic passerines may be in the forest near the viewpoint.

Macchabee Forest Road. Park beside the La Petrin Information Centre and take the

unpaved road westward. Use of this road is now barred to unauthorised vehicles. It is

very rough and a high ground clearance 4-wd vehicle would be preferred if permitted. I

walked the first 1km and saw several Mauritius Grey White-eye but nothing else of

note. More time further along the road would locate Mauritius Cuckoo Shrike and

Mauritius Paradise Flycatcher. Continuing to the end of the 4km track, you would find

the Mauritius Wildlife Appeal Fund camp where released Pink Pigeons and their wild

progeny are fed. Speak to MWAF HQ at Tamarin beforehand. You need directions

along the track as various maps give different information about the turnings to take at

junctions along it. Towards the end of the track you also hope to see Echo Parakeet.

PELAGIC SPECIES. Tuna fishing boats could be chartered from Grand Baie in the

north-west of the island for some Ł150 per half day a few years ago for a 4 hour pelagic

to Round Island, Serpent Island and Gunner’s Coin. You will get even more sunburned

than you imagined at sea in the tropics. Seawatching from the south or south-east of

the island should be productive with the prevailing south-easterly winds. Look for:

Trinidade Petrel, Wedge–tailed, Mascarene and Audubon’s Shearwaters, Red and

White-tiled Tropicbirds, Greater and Lesser Frigatebirds, Masked and Red-footed

Boobies, Lesser and Common Noddies.

ILE AUX AIGRETTES. Off the south east of Mauritius and boats will run from

Mahebourg. Mauritius Wildlife Service can give limited advice. Guided tourist trips run

there. Pink Pigeons still survive. Also a possible seawatching opportunity. The Cattle

Egrets for which the island was named no longer occur.

PETIT RIVER NOIRE SALTPANS. On the seaward side of the west coast road south

of Tamarin and Grand River Noire. The saltpans will hold wintering Asiatic waders in

the Mauritian summer but they held 2 Greenshank when I called on my way past.

TAMARIN SALTPANS. Very obvious on the landward side of the west coast road

where it runs through Tamarin. They will hold wintering waders during the Mauritian

summer but none were there on the occasions I passed these saltpans.

ANNOTATED SPECIES LIST

White-tailed Tropicbird. 1 or 2 Bassin Blanc and Gorges Viewpoint 4/5.

Striated Heron. 1 Pamplemousse Gardens 7/5, Up to 3 Pointe aux Pimentes to Citron River mouth several dates.

Mauritius Kestrel. 4 at Lower Gorges 7/5.

(Sooty Falcon. A bird at the Captive Breeding Centre at Grand Riviere Noire had been nursed back to health after being found exhausted. Perhaps a vagrant from Madagascar.)

Grey Francolin. 1 Lower Gorges 7/5.

Moorhen. 1 Citron River mouth 3/5. 1 Pamplemousse Gardens 7/5. 2 Bassin Blanc 10/5

Curlew. Ann and Brian saw a curlew type on Pointe aux Pimentes beach 1/5 and 4/5, specifically identified by call 4/5. An uncommon summer visitor remaining unexpectedly late.

Greenshank. 2 Petit River Noire saltpans 4/5.

Brown Noddy. Birds feeding off Pointe aux Pimentes on 4 dates, max. 30 on 5/5.

Rock Dove. Parties of feral birds seen regularly around settlements.

Spotted Dove. Scattered around hotels and settlements.

Madagascar Turtle Dove. Several around hotels and around the island including the National Park forest.

Zebra Dove. Common around hotels and seen up into the National Park forest.

Mascarene Swiftlet. Pointe aux Pimentes; 2 on 1/5, 8 on 10/5, 2 on 11/5. C20 Bassin Blanc & 4 Gorges Viewpoint 4/5. 2 Bassin Blanc, 2 en route 10/5.

Red-whiskered Bulbul. Parties all over the island and up into the National Park forest.

Mauritius Bulbul. 2 Bassin Blanc 10/5.

Mauritius Grey White-eye. 1 Bassin Blanc 4/5, 1 Pointe aux Pimentes 6/5. C8 Lower Gorges 7/5. Several parties Bassin Blanc & Maccabee Forest Road 10/5

House Crow. Parties of up to 10 around hotels. Small parties around the island. Said to be a nuisance in Port Louis.

Common Myna. Pairs and parties all over the island and up into the National Park forest.

House Sparrow. Common around any habitation.

Village Weaver. Common around habitation.

Madagascar Fody. Numbers seen daily, around habitation and up into the National Park forest.

Common Waxbill. Parties some days around hotels; 6 Bassin Blanc 10/5.

Scaly-breasted Munia. (Spice Finch) Pairs and small parties coastal areas.

Yellow-eyed Canary. Seen several days, usually around habitation.

A generally very friendly tropical holiday island with a limited number of endemic species largely confined to the forested south-west. Introduced species populate the coast, farmland and tourist areas. A better time of year to birdwatch would have been the wetter November/ March summer period but more birdwatching time in the right places should have uncovered most of the endemics on a May visit. There will be some pressure on the forested areas and thus on the endemic passerines as access is improving and visitor numbers will increase.