Jersey Small Arms Gunsmithing - John Torelli
Established 1982
501 Ireland Ave. Millville NJ 08332
856-825-5766

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Grendel P10 Pistol
Caliber .380 ACP
10 + 1 capacity
Non-removable internal magazine
1988 to 1991

Options included detachable grip extender,

Threaded barrel with muzzle break and "Designator" light assembly.

Speed Loader came with five M16 Stripper Clips

Parts List:

INTRODUCTION
The Grendel P-10 is a radically new type of semi-automatic pistol. The P-10 is especially suited for selfdefense or home protection by individuals with only limited training in the use of a hand gun. Like a double-action revolver, the P-10 has no external safety. Also like a revolver, the P-10 uses no loose magazines, but has a high capacity magazine integrated in the grip.
The P-10 is designed and manufactured in the United States. Extensive research and development, especially in the fields of composite materials and ignition dynamics, have been incorporated into this firearm. Thanks to the advanced design and modern computerized machinery, the P-10 can be manufactured at a low cost without compromising quality in materials or workmanship.
DESCRIPTION
The P-10 is a semi-automatic pistol chambered for the .380 ACP cartridge and operated by blowback. The firing mechansim is double-action only, with a novel low inertia safety hammer system. The magazine is loaded from top and holds 10 rounds. A speed loader is also available. The bottom of the grip is designed to accept an extension or our "MMH" target illumination system.
CONSTRUCTION
The P-10 has five main component groups: barrel, slide, frame, grip and firing mechansim. The barrel is turned and milled from SAE 4140 ordnance steel with a tensile strength of over 140,000 pounds per square inch. The bore is of standard SAAMI dimensions. The slide is milled from solid stock of La Salle Stressproof™ steel, and contains the firing pin and extractor. The frame is an all steel construction which holds the barrel, firing mechanism, and also forms the magazine lips, slide rails, and ejector. The frame is stamped with the serial number. The grip is made of a polymer metal composite, creating a unique combination of rigidity and impact strength. The grip also forms the magazine and triggerguard. It attaches to the frame with screws. The metal inserts in the grip also facilitate X-ray detection. The trigger with a lever connects via a bar/disconnector to the hammer. The hammer is driven by a novel powerspring. Virtually the whole mass of the hammer is centered around it's axis. The light weight firing pin transmits the energy of the hammer to ignite the primer.
SAFETY
To achieve highest operator safety, combined with ease of handling, the P-10 has no manual safety and the hammer is never cocked. Very much like a hammerless revolver. The hammer is of a novel design. Compared to a conventional hammer, the P-10's is extremely light and consequently, operates at very high velocities. It is driven directly by a special powerspring on the same axis. Furthermore, the hammer's mass is concentrated around its axis giving an inertia in the critical direction of the firing pin close to zero. The velocities necessary to fire a cartridge with the low mass hammer/firing system are so high that they cannot even be approached by the slide's action or an accidental fall. A direct blow to the hammer is impossible, as it is enclosed by the slide and grip. The hammer's energy is transmitted to the primer through a proportionally light weight firing pin.
DISASSEMBLY
Clear the P-10 of ammunition. Pull the Slide back until the Barrel Retaining Pin is aligned with the hole in the Slide. Push the Barrel Pin out either side. Restrain the slide and ease it off the front of the receiver. The Recoil Spring, Recoil Spring Guide and Barrel are easily removed from the slide. The P-10 is now field stripped for cleaning. It is not recommended that you proceed any further with disassembly. However, should you need to replace a broken part refer to the following directions. Slide Group: Use a small tool to push the Extractor Plunger into the Slide and remove the Extractor from it's recess in the Slide. Remove the Extractor Plunger and its Spring from the Slide. Drive out the Roll Pin that retains the Firing Pin and it's Return Spring and remove the Firing Pin and Spring out the back of the Slide.
Receiver Group: Remove the small Hex Screw at the front right of the Grip Frame which secures the Trigger Pin. Pull the Trigger about half way. The Trigger Bar (Part #260) and its Connecting Plate (Part #258) should pop up out of the Grip Frame. Do not try to remove the Trigger Bar at this time. Remove the two small Hex Screws on both sides at the rear of the plastic Grip Frame. Remove the large Hex Screw in the middle of the receiver assembly. Remove the Receiver Assembly upwards and out of the Grip Frame keeping a hand over the front part to catch the Trigger Bar/Slide Stop Lever Spring (Part #284). (This spring can launch itself quite a distance. Don't try this over a carpeted area, or you could loose the spring.) The Slide Stop Lever is easily removed. Take note of the relationship of the Coiled Hammer Spring and Hammer in the Receiver. Remove the Magazine Follower downwards. Push the Hammer Pin out towards the left and remove the Hammer, Spring and Magazine Guide Assembly down and out of the Receiver. These parts are now easily separated. Remove the Trigger Stop Pin and push out the Trigger Pin to the left and remove the Trigger and its Return Spring.
REASSEMBLY
Receiver Group: Remember, you were warned about taking the P-10 completely apart. First, if you removed it, reinstall the Trigger and its Return Spring. Next, replace the large Magazine Spring back into the Grip Frame onto its stud. Put the Trigger Bar (Part #260) into position in the Grip Frame. Do not secure it to the Trigger yet. Put the Hammer Spring against the Hammer with the small hook of the coiled Spring bearing on the pin sticking through the Hammer and slide this assembly into the Receiver. Push the Hammer Retaining Pin into place. The open end of the hook on the Hammer Spring fits on top of the Threaded Grip Tube (Part #226) at the rear. Insert the Threaded Grip Tube being certain that the Hammer is underneath of the Grip Tube. If installed correctly the Threaded Grip Tube will be in-between the top hook of the Hammer Spring and the front side of the Hammer. As it is necessary to rotate the Hammer around and up to put the proper tension on the Hammer Spring, make a Slave Pin to secure the Grip Tube in place or you will never get it back into the Receiver. (Alternatively, you can use two Hex head plug screws for this.) The Slave Pin must be exactly flush with either side of the Receiver or you will damage the Grip Frame trying to re-insert the Receiver. Do not use the Slave Pin you've made just yet. Instead, thread in both of the small Hex Screws tightly into the Grip Tube to keep the assembly together while you cock the Hammer. Rotate the Hammer and slip the Magazine Guide (Part #317) down from the top and over the Hammer making sure the hook at its rear is in place over the same Threaded Grip Tube that the Hammer Spring is secured to. Push the Magazine Follower up from the bottom into place in the Receiver. This will keep everything else in place. Remove the Right Side small Hex Screw and slide in your Slave Pin. Keeping pressure on the Slave Pin unscrew the small Hex Screw on the other side. Take the Slide Stop Lever (Part #280) and hold it against the Receiver, with it's small tab protruding through the opening in the Receiver and resting on top of the Magazine Follower. Carefully align the assembly with the Grip Frame and insert it into position. Thread in the small Hex Screws that hold the receiver at the rear beginning with the Right Side first. As you turn in the Hex Screw it will force your Slave Pin out the other side. Remove the slave pin and thread in the other Hex Screw. The Slide Stop Lever/Trigger Bar Spring (Part #284) fits into a rectangular opening in the front of the Receiver. One extension of the spring bears down on the top of the Slide Stop Lever while the other pushes up on the Trigger Bar. Keeping the Trigger Bar up and out of the way, shove the Spring into the opening with the one side bearing on the Slide Stop Lever. Make sure it's in place as you push the Receiver assembly the rest of the way into the Grip Frame. Secure the Receiver into the Grip Frame with the large Hex Screw. Place the Trigger Bar Plate (Part #258) onto the Right Side of the Trigger Bar with its bearing studs facing in. Pull the Trigger about half way and the studs will align with notches on the Trigger Pin. Make sure the Trigger Bar is on top of its spring. Secure with the smallest of the Hex Screws. Tighten the two small Hex Screws at the rear of the Grip Frame. To check your assembly, lightly hold onto the Hammer and partially pull the Trigger. It should begin to cock the Hammer.
Slide Group: Insert the Firing Pin and its Spring into the back of the Slide and secure with the Retaining Pin. Slip the Extractor Spring and Plunger into place and push the Extractor backwards and into its slot until it snaps into position. Replace the Barrel, Recoil Spring and Guide back into the Slide. Make certain the Barrel and Recoil Spring Guide are exactly centered or they will not seat properly. Line up the holes and replace the Barrel Pin.

An evolution of the P-10 was the P-12 with an 11 round detachable magazine which was made from 1991 to 1995. Most of the parts will interchange and assembly and dissasembly are identical with the exception of the Extractor assemblies.

Another model of the Grendel was the P-30 in caliber .22 Magnum, also manufactured from 1991 to 1995. The P-30 held 30 rounds in a detachable magazine and was available with a five or eight inch barrel.

		GRENDEL, INC. P.O Box 908 Rockledge FL 32955 USA    (Do not write to this     address.  Obsolete.)

A note about parts requests:

I do have a small handful of parts for the Grendel
series of .380 auto's.  I do not  have any  Hammer
Springs  available at the moment.     I also do not
have any parts for the Grendel P30 .22 Magnums.  
You can check my inventory and pricing at this link:
Parts and Availability Link 

* If you have a Grendel that is usable for parts and want
to sell it please let me know.  A lot of people are in need
of replacements and your help would be appreciated.  

JTorelli3@comcast.net

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