Starting with a WWI model subchaser manufactured by Glencoe and, as I understand it, was discontinued about 1985.

In order to keep the accuracy as close to possible, you will have to glue the two halves of the hull together and then create a new deck to the correct width. (You can use the same length) Although the ship is not quite 1/72nd scale, it seems to be close enough to permit the use of 1/72nd scale ordnance. I personally purchased the 20 MM and 40 MM cannons from the Floatingdrydock. After the two halves of the hull have dried, you need to expand the width of the hull to bring it closer to the width of the WWII version. (I expanded it with short wooded spacers.) I realize this will not really make it the correct dimensions; but it will bring it closer to the actual size.

Rusty White at Flagship Models also can assist you with obtaining numerous items that will assist you with your model building. He is an excellent source for brass railings and etched brass parts. Too many things available for me to properly list here. Check out his web site and see for yourself. He has also been instrumental in assisting me with this project. Many thanks Rusty.

Tom (from the Floating Drydock) has a great, collection of all sorts of nifty things that make it well worth the $4.50 he charges for his catalogs. He has no showroom; but most everything is listed in his catalog. For more info, his web site may help. Sending him an email may also prove beneficial.

Anyway, back to my model. . . Once the glue for the hull has setup, you need to expand the upper part of the hull to meet the actual width of the WWII model. (After completing most of the ship except the mast, antennas, etc, I did a dry fit of the guns and discovered the difference in the width of the two ships.) (Ugh) On the WWI unmodified deck, the 20 mm cannons cannot swivel around without dumping the operator over the side. This was a terrible setback for me and told me that it will never be "Accurate", so I decided to give the viewer the impression that what they were looking at was a WWII sub-chaser. By buying some Styrene plastic sheets and gluing them together lengthwise, I was able to get the necessary length for the deck. After much cutting, sanding and dry fitting I was able to create a deck that fits inside the expanded hull.

The raised deck amidships was crafted out of some .040 mil styrene sheets. The sides of the wheel house were constructed out of the same material. In fact, most everything above the hull was created out of this stuff. It is great for that. The sheets that I bought had the impression of boards mounted edge to edge, thus adding to the realism of wooden planks.

(Please note that the cannons are not installed yet, nor is the mast.)

The Depth Charge racks were created using some (close to scale) plastic that was shaped like "I" beams and angle iron. It was very tedious; but the end results were worth it. Now I wish I would have spent more time doing it. (Oh well, I guess I will save it for the next one.)

Here is the topside view of the model. Note the binnacle on the flying bridge and the depth charge racks. The mousetraps have yet to be installed along with the cannons and mast.

The Depth Charges were oil drums from an HO train set accessory kit. The railings were constructed from individual styrene rods. You will have to pick out the correct diameter for the railings. . . (I forgot to write the size of the rod down.) The tubing is available in a great assortment of diameters. I am currently trying to use it for the cable between the posts around the hull. I am not quite sure if I can get the sag required; but I am still trying.

Check out an HO train accessory or model store for all sorts of items that can fit onto the ship. Although the HO scale is actually 1/92, (or something close to that) I have used the available accessories to fill in where I did not have the time or patience to create an original.

The storage boxes are made from similar sized wood. I bought long strips of different dimension wood and cut them to the approximate sizes required. Rounding off the sharp edges seemed to lend a bit of accuracy to the storage boxes, etc.

Using military figures in the 1/72 scale is all we have to man the 1/74 scale subchaser. Again, I felt that this was close enough to get the effect I was looking for.

This model is not necessarily correct in all categories; but then who is? I would like to make my work superior when possible. . . although that is a glamorous strategy, we must look at it as somewhat unrealistic. I would truly like to have everything just perfect for this but it will never happen. Not with my limited time or resources. I was only trying to recreate as much accuracy as possible. The greatest thing is to do what you enjoy and enjoy what you are doing.

 Rear view of depthcharge racks and bandstand. Sideview of the Wheelhouse.

I am trying to create a collection of photos and drawings to assist those among you that wish to try to make your own model. If you contact me about them, I will put you on my list and when everything is in order, I will contact those interested.

Before. . . After. . . but before any real detailing.

Please come back. I will have additional photos of the model and additional info that I will be posting as time permits.