Pet Shrink's Feline Behavior Series

The Feline Behavior Series

Litterbox Problems

Litterbox Problems and Solutions

With any sudden litterbox problem, the first step is always to schedule a trip to the veterinarian. Medical reasons, such as Urinary Tract Infections, are common causes of these problems, but there are a number of other medical possibilities that can be far more severe. Scheduling a veterinary exam early is often the best thing you can do to correct a problem quickly. All the behavioral training in the world won't help a cat with a veterinary problem.

When a medical problem has been ruled out, I usually recommend a brief observation period. During this time, scan the environment for items that may be producing stress. Get a journal and write down as much as you can about each accident. Look for links. Does the cat always urinate on carpeting? Does it happen only at night? After meals? When guests are over? When you are gone? While you can't control what your cat think, you have great control over the cat's environment. By isolating the factors that are connected to the behavior, you'll have a lot more power changing the behavior.

Next, clean the accident sites with an enzyme-based pet odor remover. It often takes a number of applications to fool the cat's sensitive nose, and to complicate matters, the declining smell of urine is often a signal to the cat to "reapply" the territorial sign! Block off accident sites or make them unpalatable to your cat to discourage the habit. Squirting the cat with a water bottle helps with some cats, but others may learn to simply use these areas only when you're not around. A better choice is a remote punishment, which works whether you are nearby or not. Since cats hate to be startled, putting upside-down mousetraps under some newspapers can be a safe deterrent. Balloons are a bad option - if they break, they can be ingested and seriously harm your pet. Cats usually want a soft feel under their paws, so covering the area with double-sided tape, hard plastic, or an inverted carpet runner (pointy feet up!) can make an area less appealing to your cat.

While you clean the accident sites, make the current box as welcoming as possible. Make sure that it is clean, has privacy, and escapability. Escapability means that the cat can see a little into the distance, in case the cat wants to flee. Also, be sure that the path to the box doesn't contain areas where your cat can be ambushed. Multiple litterboxes is always a good idea.

If attacking the individual problem area doesn't work, and your cat begins to choose new, inappropriate sites, you may need to retrain your cat through isolation. The key here is to reduce the cat's area so that the litterbox is the only good place to choose. Select a small, uncarpeted room, such as a bathroom, and place inside it the cat's litterbox, food dish, and favorite play toys, all in opposite corners. Make sure all towels and rugs are off the floor since their soft feel can often encourage the cat to urinate on them. Set up a specific schedule for feeding, play, and other cat events. Cats love schedules, and this will significantly reduce stress. You can add extra activities whenever you wish, as long as you consistently make your appointments. Visit the cat often, and try to make this "vacation" as rewarding for your cat as possible. You may wish to check on the cat hourly and clean the box. This will give you a chance to record the cat's daily urination schedule, so later you can let the cat out during low-risk periods. If all goes well, this will help reset your cat's territory, and by constant use of the box, rebuild the litterbox habit.

After some successful litterbox use, and you can trust the cat to use the box in that room, gradually give the cat access to the rest of the house. Make the additions small, by keeping doors closed or blocking off hallways. If the new territory grows too big, too quickly, the cat may have accidents to leave a chemical message in places that can't be regularly patrolled.

If your cat does have an accident, there are three common responses that are definite no no's. Don't punish the cat - this will only raise the stress level. Don't rub the cat's nose in the mistake - the smell often causes the cat to actually go there more! Don't put the cat in the box, or rub his paws in the litter - this can cause litterbox aversions. The best thing to do is to calmly pick up the cat and place the cat next to the litterbox, then clean up the mistake. The best advice is to back your training up one week, and slow it down a little.

Litterbox problems can be extremely frustrating. However, with a little knowledge, patience, and hard work, you can help your cat back to appropriate litterbox use.

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Litterbox Preferences

One point that I don't think animal behaviorists communicate strongly enough is that litterbox use is a preference issue. We don't teach the cat to use the box, we make it a more preferable spot to go than the other locations in our house.

If your cat has tried inappropriate places before, and perhaps gotten into brief habits of using these locations, the preference between the litterbox and these sites will not be as big a gap as for other cats. There can be many reasons why preferences change. The box can look worse if it is dirty, in a location that isn't private, or can be ambushed. Some cats that get an illness might find litterbox use painful, and associate the box as a place to avoid. Stress also changes habits. A new spot might be more appealing if it contains a territorial threat. Chairs and beds carry our smells strongly, and cats sometimes wish to cover these scents with their own. Once a cat has urinated in a different location, the declining smell of urine is a signal for the cat to reapply, and that a cat's nose is about 10,000 times better at picking up these smells than we are. If we can barely smell it, a cat can REALLY smell it! Therefore it's sometimes difficult to make these mistake sites less appealing.

The bottom line is that if your individual cat does not act like he thinks there is a big difference between the box and other locations, you need to take action. This problem will stop if you can get regular litterbox use to become habitual, but in the meantime, you need to enhance these differences.

If the cat only likes a few places besides the box, we can start out by making these areas less preferable. Clean the accident sites with an enzyme-based pet odor remover to eliminate their smells. You may wish to put an inverted carpet runner, little feet up, on different problem sites to change the texture. A better idea is to keep the cat out of the area entirely, by "haunting" the place. Squirt bottles are OK, but often teach a cat to avoid an area when we are around. Since urination is typically a private act for cats, it doesn't always work well. Try "booby-trapping" the area with flipped over mousetraps, which can safely startle the cat, and get the cat to avoid the area. Double-sided tape on the chairs might help as well, since cats hate to be surprised and get their paws sticky.

To make the box more appealing, begin by purchasing a new box to help with any aversions. Keep it immaculate, and place a second box nearby so the cat always has a clean place to choose. Cats in the wild like to urinate in one location and defecate in another, so two boxes is always a good idea, and maybe more if you have more than one cat. Make sure that the locations offer privacy, and also allow the cat to see anything coming. Cats like to be able to escape if necessary.

Finally, you may wish to keep a journal of your cat's accidents. This may allow you to determine high-risk times when you might wish to confine the cat. A journal could also help you determine environmental stressors that contribute to the problem. The more your cat uses the box, the more it will become habitual and the greater the preference differences will become.

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Retraining through Isolation

In some situations, litterbox habits are so bad, or mistakes have gone on for so long, that we simply need to start over. In these cases, I often recommend isolation. Basically, we want to develop the litterbox habit by making the litterbox the only good option in the cat's whole area. Isolation does not mean the cat has to be alone, just isolated from places that the cat might prefer as an alternative to the litterbox.

Isolate the cat in a small, uncarpeted room, preferably the one where you'll keep the litterbox after training is complete. You may wish to purchase a new litterbox in case your cat has developed an aversion to the old one. Put the food bowl in the opposite corner. Visit the cat often, but the isolation should last for at least a few days. Monitor the litterbox as often as you can, so you can keep it clean and get an idea of the cat's daily litterbox schedule. The longer you can keep the cat using the litterbox, the more firmly attached the habit will become.

The declining smell of an accident site is a territorial cue for the cat to "reapply," so clean these spots with an enzyme-based pet odor remover, and cover them with an inverted carpet runner (little feet up). The last part is important because cats are very sensitive to the texture of urination sites. This will help prevent the cat from maintaining the habit, when you finally allow him to visit that room again.

I prefer a full weekend of isolation before you gradually give the cat access to the rest of the house. Go very slowly. If the cat starts in a bathroom, over the next few days you might only add the hallway to it. Keep all the other doors shut, and part of the hallway blocked off. If you've discovered the urination routine, put the cat back in the bathroom about a half hour before critical periods. Over the next few months, you can gradually increase access to the rest of the house. Save the accident site rooms for last. If the cat makes even one mistake, back up the training one week and restart from there.

All of these actions help redefine the cat's boundaries, and end habitual litterbox problems. Denying access to other areas reduces the cat's idea of territory. Smaller territories give the cat less impetus to leave a chemical reminder for areas that can't always be patrolled. If the cat is comfortable that the area is close enough, you probably won't see litterbox problems.

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Litterbox Problems in Multi-cat Homes

Solving urination problems in a multi-cat home is usually a difficult proposition. Urination is one way that cats claim territory, so a litterbox accident is often considered as a threat by another cat. Cats also develop complex and unique hierarchies in order to live together peacefully, so changing one cat's litterbox habits can affect the rest of the cats as well.

Always start with a vet exam. The first shots fired in a urination war often arise from a urinary tract infection. In addition, without a trip to the vet all the cats could get sick, multiplying the problem. If the medical problems are not solved first, we can't give peace a chance.

If the vet determines that the problem is behavioral, I usually recommend a brief period of observation. During the observation period, search the environment for items that may be producing stress. Concentrate on things that may be important to your cats, like food bowls, litterboxes, neighbor cats outside, favorite sleeping places, etc. Get a journal and record as much as you can about each litterbox accident. Look for links. Does the cat always choose carpeting? Bathtubs? When you entertain? At night? When you are gone? By isolating the factors that affect your cat, you can do a better job of controlling your environment and thus your cat's behavior.

Next, clean the accident sites with a pet odor remover, and block them off or make them unpalatable to your cat to prevent the habit. Use remote punishments, such as double-sided tape, an upside-down plastic carpet runner, or flipped over mousetraps under newspaper. Cats hate to be startled and usually want a soft feel under their paws. These items prevent the location from being "cat-friendly."

At the same time, make the current box as welcoming as possible. Make sure that it is clean, has privacy, and escapability. Escapability means that the cat can see a ways in the distance, and is very important in multi-cat homes. Most cats prefer clumping litter.

If attacking the individual problem area doesn't work, you may need to retrain your cat through isolation. Try to make this as a last resort. When one of your cats is not around as much, it might alter the relationship with the others. They may try to claim the original cat's territory, or their routine may be changed. You can find an article on "Retraining through Isolation" elsewhere in this area.

Sometimes, general multi-cat stress reduction techniques may help. If the problem is territorial, extra resources, like litterboxes and food bowls may reduce the need for competition. Since you are also a resource, make sure all the cats get as much petting and attention as they could possibly want. Exercise is very effective in helping cats get along, so you might want to use a string toy to redirect your cats' energies. Also establish a routine for the next few weeks to further reduce stress. Scheduling feeding, exercise, and petting sessions at the same times every day will help calm the cats.

Urination problems in multiple cat homes can be difficult to deal with, but not impossible. Try to be patient, follow the plan, and hopefully you'll have your big happy family back to normal in no time!

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Eliminating on Bed or Laundry

Believe it or not, urinating on our beds or laundry is not an uncommon problem. Our beds strongly carry our smells, (no offense - I mean "strongly" for our cat's sensitive nose!) and it sometimes brings about a territorial response when the cat is under stress. This is especially true in multi-cat households, where territorial rights are constantly an issue, but can occur in single-cat houses.

Litterbox use is a matter of preference, so continue to make the box look as attractive as possible. Some cats prefer soft, clumping litter, most want their boxes cleaned regularly, and all want privacy, and the ability to see a long way out of the box so they can't be ambushed.

In the meantime, make the bed as inhospitable as possible. Clean the bedspread with a pet odor remover to get rid of the smell. The declining smell of urine is a cue for the cat to "reapply," so when you aren't using the bed, keep a plastic cloth over the bedspread as well. This will give the product time to work, as well as discourage the cat from jumping up there.

You might also want to teach the cat to stay off the bed all the time, because if the cat doesn't get too close to the stimuli that elicit the behavior, the habit won't be as irresistible. You can place cardboard slats on top of the bedspread with double-sided tape on top. Cats hate to be surprised, and hate to get their paws sticky, so they often start avoiding the bed altogether.

Dirty laundry is another common target for the exact same reasons - they strongly carry our scent. The same can be said of bath towels, rugs, and even our favorite chair. For laundry, however, the only real defense is to keep the laundry picked up and away from the cat, or separate the cat from these areas. Keeping the cat from the stimulus will often cause the habit to become extinct.

Also try to determine what could be causing the extra stress in the cat's life. Try to keep a notebook describing the events that surround the event. Cats often urinate on beds or laundry when their routine is altered, perhaps by overnight guests, or when we stay overnight elsewhere. It may also have something to do with food. Try thinking about what is important in your cat's life, and you may be able to alter the environment and not need to worry again.

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Preventing Spraying

While this topic is not necessarily a litterbox problem, I've placed it here because many people do not understand the difference between urinating and spraying. Spraying cats will emit a foul smelling stream for territorial reasons, usually choosing vertical items to spray upon, their backside will be raised, and they usually end with a telltale quiver of the tail. Urinating cats pick horizontal surfaces, and keep their backsides down.

Both males and females can spray, and both can still spray after sterilization, although this greatly reduces the likelihood. Female cats in estrus sometimes spray to let males know they are available. Males are ALWAYS available, and both sexes use spraying to stake off their own territory.

Sterilizing a cat before he or she reaches maturity is a good way to prevent spraying. For example, 90% of male sprayers stop within two months after neutering. Unfortunately, you could still have one of those 10% cats, who continues to do it after he's neutered because it is a learned habit. The safest course of action is to sterilize the cat before he or she sprays the first time, and avoid confronting learned, habitual spraying.

Once a cat has begun spraying, the most effective technique is to eliminate the stimuli that elicit the behavior. Cats usually spray in response to a perceived territorial threat, whether that is from a new pet, a guest, or a cat out in the yard.

Fortunately, we have great control over the cat's environment. Keeping a cat indoors, and away from contact with outdoor cats will help. Reducing his territory to an area he can physically patrol will diminish the need to leave chemical signals. Finally, reduce the cat's stress by putting his life on a schedule, and providing all the attention and play that he needs to redirect his energies in a more appropriate manner.

For temporary guests, it may be easier on your cat to keep the cat in his favorite room until the visit is over. Make sure you visit the cat often, and give the cat plenty of reassurance. There is also an article in this area on about fears of strangers that might be helpful if you'd like to make long term progress.

If you catch the cat in the act of spraying, clap your hands together and shout. Then, calmly put the cat next to his litterbox. Always clean spray sites with a pet odor remover, and cover with floor in front with an inverted plastic carpet runner, to keep the declining smell of the spray to cause the cat to "reapply." If the cat continues, try placing his food in the spray site to further deter his habits.

Finally, don't forget about your veterinarian. He or she may be able to help with certain medications that can be very effective, especially combined with a behavioral program.

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Litterbox “Training” Kittens

Very young kittens have no control of their elimination .. their muscles simply aren't developed enough yet. For kittens under three weeks of age, their mother will usually take care of their needs by licking. If you happen to be fostering a kitten of this age without a mother, you will need to wipe them yourself with a damp washcloth to stimulate elimination.

One other thing - kittens that are this young need a kitten milk simulation to eat, and access to plenty of water. Cow milk is not a good choice, as many kittens and cats are lactose intolerant, and this can cause problems with their wastes.

One of the best things about kittens is that they come programmed to use the litterbox. Many owners pat themselves on the back for "teaching" their kitten to use a litterbox, but cats are born with an instinct to bury their wastes. If you place the kitten in the litterbox a few times (and make sure the sides aren't too tall to re-enter!), they will usually begin digging and may even use the box. Praise the kitten for this, but don't be too obtrusive -- a simple "Good kitty" should do the trick. Don't rub the kitten's paws in the box -- for some cats this will cause an aversion that may cause problems.

Young kittens shouldn't be given access to the whole house right away. With those little legs, a litterbox in the next room might seem miles away! Start the kitten off in a bathroom with a litterbox and food bowl in opposite corners. Be sure to give the kitten lots of attention. By starting the kitten off this way, it helps her learn where the box is, develop a preference for the feel of the litter, and get into the habit of going to that spot. After the habit is established, you can gradually increase her access to your entire house, and still be likely to avoid any accidents.

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Elimination and Older Cats

Older cats are generally more sensitive, so concerned owners must be vigilant to the first signs of elimination problems. Over the years, the cat has successfully used the box thousands of times and has made it a habit. When you suddenly see mistakes, you know something is wrong.

One of the most common causes of litterbox problems in older cats is a medical problem. Therefore, the first place to go when you see any elimination problem is always the veterinarian. Early detection is one of your best weapons. Often a cat will experience pain in defecating, learn to associate the box with the pain, and stop using the box. That might require some veterinary help, a change in diet, or some new training, but without first solving the medical problem, the behavior won't just go away. Even if the vet finds nothing wrong (which is the prognosis we always hope for), you've eliminated a whole host of possibilities while getting some relief yourself.

Sometimes our older cats don't have anything wrong with them internally, but are just losing some of their physique. That one litterbox way in the corner of the basement may seem very far away to your older cat, so adding a couple extra boxes may help out you and your cat. Also remember that even if your cat gets to the litterbox, they might find it hard to climb over high sides. Some older cats appreciate a little ramp to use to get in and out of the box.

Older cats are also used to years of your normal routine, so be prepared when your changes bring on litterbox problems. When changes in your cat's environment are unavoidable, try to help out by providing a strict routine before and after the change. For an older cat, knowing that you are still there and he can count on where you will be is very stress-relieving. Hopefully this will help prevent litterbox problems from appearing in the first place.

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Common Problems

Scratching

The process for teaching a cat to scratch in the right places is two-fold: make inappropriate places less preferable, and appropriate places more preferable. As we all know, cats like to make their own choices, and if you make your favorite spot appealing to the cat, scratching is usually not a problem.

There are certainly a few facts to keep in mind when developing a program to prevent unwanted scratching. First, cats need to scratch to keep their ever-growing claws sharp. A program that does not give the cat an appropriate place to scratch simply won't work. Next, scratching is linked to territorial instincts. Your couch holds a prominent space in your living room and contains your smell. Because your cat must constantly pass by, it invites scratching. Finally, scratching seems to feel good. A material that the cat can dig in and snag is something to watch out for.

Start by making the current scratching sites less desirable. A quick way is to place double-sided tape on inappropriate locations. Cats hate to get their paws sticky, and will often avoid it.

Next, place scratching posts next to the common sites. I recommend a post at least three feet tall, because the general stretching motion often invites a cat to begin scratching. The post should have some snaggable material on the outside, such as sisal or even bark. Cats learn to associate a feel to the post, so I do not recommend carpeting. Many people with carpeted posts occasionally catch their cats lying on their sides and scratching on carpeted steps, or even just starting on the floor. Make sure the post is sturdy, too. If it falls over, it could scare the cat and eliminate hopes of successful training.

Getting a cat to scratch on a post is usually easy. Play with the cat, so that he has to stretch up on the post to reach a toy. This stretching alone may be enough to get the cat to start scratching. If not, praise the cat for stretching, to develop a positive association to the post. About half the cats around enjoy catnip, and if this is spread on the top parts of the post it might help as well. When your cat does scratch, lavish lots of praise and rewards on the cat. Don't believe the old myth of rubbing the cat’s paws on the post to show the cat how to scratch - this often causes the cat to avoid the post entirely.

After a couple of weeks, you might wish to move the posts to more convenient locations. Do it slowly, moving them no more than five feet each week. Once the cats are using the posts in the spaces you find appropriate, you can gradually remove the tape. Since they are out of the habit, the post will probably be much more favored with a different material, and your couch will usually be safe.

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Wake Up Cat

Cats have an amazing ability to get into a routine and almost tell time, but it doesn't seem so amazing when they use it to wake you up at 5:03 AM each morning!

Our cats' sleep routine is determined by many of the same things that affect our own. If we napped all afternoon, we would sleep less at night. A second cat can sometimes give your pet a reason to stay awake during the day. If a playmate is out of the question, try leaving out interesting toys and games for investigation. Empty boxes or paper sacks left on the floor can be a great place for your cat to play in. Hiding toys or treats around the house can encourage your cat for afternoon hunts. A bird feeder near a favorite window may provide hours of entertainment each day for a more sedentary cat.

A feeding schedule change may also help. Just like with us, a big meal before bedtime can put a cat to sleep. Canned food in the evenings to encourage a very full tummy. Pick up the dish when the cat is finished. In the late morning, a breakfast of dry food will not encourage the cat to wake up early. Cats have a natural instinct to hunt at dusk and at dawn, an hour before breakfast. When they wake up in the middle of the night, and decide to catch a snack, they can alter their sleep schedule. By only feeding the cat later in the morning, we can actually reset the cat clock.

Finally, change the habit by making it difficult or unrewarding for the cat to continue waking you up. Cats will resist any change in their routine, particular one involving food, so be ready! If your cat is a crier, make sure you keep some earplugs by the bed for a few weeks. If your cat walks on you to wake you up, consider keeping the bedroom door closed. Another tactic is to keep the cat carrier next to the bed, and place the pest in there for ten minutes whenever he wakes you. Your cat will quickly learn that waking you up suddenly does not get him the rewards he expected, and it should help extinguish the behavior.

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Jumping on Counters

One of the most frustrating problems with owning cats is their willingness to jump up on counters. Jumping to high places is a natural activity for the cat, and the possibility of a little snack left on the counter makes this a kitty-favorite.

Many people suggest squirt bottles to dissuade the cat. These work in some cases, but for others, it only teaches the cat to not jump up on the counters if you are around! Who wants to wake up every morning to paw prints on the counters?

A much better tool is remote discouragement, which will work whether you are around or not. Take a number of pieces of cardboard, put double-sided tape on them, then place them on the counter, sticky-side up. Cover the entire countertop, because if we want to teach the cat not to jump up, we want the cat to land on the tape immediately.

This technique is very effective for two reasons. First, the jumping cat is quickly rewarded with a surprise, and cats hate surprises! Second, they also dislike getting their paws sticky. All that grooming time they spend on their paws is inherited, because their ancestors often went hungry if the hunting tools weren't in tip-top shape. This makes your use of tape an extremely effective motivator, and in many cases, just a couple mistakes will get the cat to change well-established behavior. Best of all, when you remove the cardboard in a couple weeks, the cat doesn't have the vantage point to see that they're gone!

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Christmas Tree

It's the Christmas season again -- the time of year when our cats demonstrate that they can still outsmart the resident pet shrink.

Every year, frazzled owners ask me, "How do I keep my cat out of the Christmas tree?"

Every year, I give out my list of training techniques.

And every year a large number of these cats ignore every ounce of my education and experience and just do whatever they please.

Maybe I'm just making excuses now, but if you think about it, keeping your cat out of the Christmas tree is a difficult job. After all, you bring in a giant, fresh-smelling scratching post, stand it up in the middle of your cat's territory, dangle shiny items on it, and then say, "Now kitty, you just ignore that big green thing, OK?"

That's not to say there is nothing you can do. The following Top Ten list of ideas may help you and your cat have a happier holiday.

1. Keep the cat from knocking the tree over by using a very large base. Also, It's not a bad idea to fasten the tree to the ceiling with monofilament fishing line.

2. Decorate the floor under the tree with a colorful sheet of plastic. Many cats hate to walk on it, so if they can't get close, it might help and not detract from the look of the tree.

3. You may also want to try teaching your cat not to approach the tree at all. Most cats hate to be startled, so you might want to set up a few, safe, booby-traps to keep the cat away from that "haunted" Christmas tree. The most effective deterrents work when you aren't around, so you're really only limited by your own devious imagination. A few of my favorites have been inverted mousetraps under a Christmas rug, empty pop cans stacked precariously on upper branches, and one imaginative owner even rigged his motion detector to keep the cat away from the tree!

4. Don't entice the cat by dangling ornaments on low branches, particularly ornaments that can break. Forget the tinsel too -- it can be swallowed with dangerous consequences.

5. Another technique that may help, particularly if you have only one cat, is to redirect your cat's energy. Setting up a scheduled, 15-minute exercise session or two every day might leave your pet too tired to get into trouble. This works best in the early evening, and if you choose a room other than the one with the tree to be the cat's new "hunting ground." Exercise also has the added benefit of reducing stress, which might help prevent other cat problems when the holiday guests start arriving.

6. The chemicals that you add to the water to help the tree live longer can have the opposite effect on your cat. Keep the cat from investigating this new smell and drinking the toxic water by wrapping up the tree stand and base.

7. Twinkling Christmas lights will attract your cat. Unplug them when you're not around.

8. Spray electric cords with a pet deterrent like "Bitter Apple" to further prevent the cat from biting them. You might even want to spray the trunk of the tree, to perhaps dissuade climbing.

9. Be careful about the way your presents are wrapped too. Ribbons may entice the cat to the tree, and if they are swallowed, can cause serious harm.

10. Finally, you might consider keeping the cat physically separated from the tree. Closed doors DO protect Christmas trees, and can also protect your cat. This might also help your guests enjoy Christmas -- many people are allergic to cats, or are just uncomfortable around them. It might be less stressful to your cat as well.

I have to confess that if you do all ten of these things perfectly, your cat still might want to get in the tree! After years of pulling out my hair, my best advice is to be philosophical. Our cats give us the same gift at Christmas that they do every day ... they keep us humble.

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Traveling

Riding in the Car

Would you like to take your cat with you in the car? Does he hate it now? For some cats, a little hard work before your leave can make the trip easier on both you and your cat.

First, always use a carrier when you take a cat anywhere in a car. With the proper desensitization, a carrier does not have to be a place your cat fears -- rather, it can be a little bit of home that's around him wherever the car goes. Even if you don't have time to help the cat accept the carrier, he should never ride in a car outside of a carrier. If your cat gets aroused and attacks, or hides under the brake pedal, you'll all wish you kept your cat contained!

To help the cat get accustomed to the carrier, leave the carrier out for in the middle of the floor for a few weeks, so your cat can examine it whenever he desires. Make examining it rewarding for the cat by leaving treats nearby, or inside. Leave a comforting item, like a favorite blanket or toy inside, and keep it in there on actual trips.

Once your cat is comfortable with the carrier, the car is the next step. Always go slowly, and let the cat deal with new stimuli a little at a time. For example, the first visits might be to the car without turning on the engine, a little later to the idling car, and then a few days after that, try short trips. Hopefully all this work will help your cat become less stressed during the actual trip.

Before you leave on your trip, be prepared. Try to start your day with his normal routine and a little exercise before you leave may help redirect his energy as well. Make sure your cat has identification on him, (or IN him, if you chose to use a microchip!). It's often a good idea to include the name of a friend at home or your mobile home .. if you're on the road, you need to take the call if someone finds your lost cat! Pack food, water, bowls, and a litterbox of course, although your cat may not use it much during the trip. If you've gotten your cat comfortable with a harness and leash, this can help provide exercise at rest breaks, as well as help you catch your cat if he tries to run off.

When you are on the road, you can comfort your cat with your voice, but avoid reaching into the carrier to pet him. You can be a great stress-reliever for your cat if you try not to act nervously either. If you act calmly about riding in the car with your cat, chances are it will help him do the same.

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Travel by Plane

Because of recent horror stories, many people are reluctant to consider traveling with their cats by plane. However, airlines are working hard to correct these problems, and plane travel does offer some wonderful advantages for your cat that are unavailable when you are driving.

First and foremost, planes are fast. Traveling is going to be a stressful event for most cats, and if a plane can get you somewhere in a fraction of the time a car ride would take, you're helping reduce your cat's stress.

Cats don't always have to go on planes as baggage. Some airlines allow you to take them with you in the cabin as carry-on luggage, assuming you are using a soft-sided carrier that allows it to fit under the seat. Be sure to contact your airline before you travel to find out their policies. For hints on desensitizing your cat to the carrier, check the article on Riding in the Car. If you can take your cat on board with you, you have the luxury of concentrating on him, and not the road, as you head towards your destination.

Transporting your cat as cargo is less preferred, but not as dangerous as you might think. Cargo holds are pressurized, and thousands of cats and dogs travel this way every day.

Before you leave, make sure you have adequately prepared. Have reservations made for transportation to and from the airport, so that you can minimize the time the cat spends at the airport. Make sure he has identification on him, and on his carrier. Be sure to take along needed supplies. Also, be sure to carry proof of vaccination, to make sure he can pass through customs without incident. Some places have quarantine laws as well, so be sure to check before you leave whether your cat can stay with you once you arrive.

Airline travel can be a safe and effective way to travel, provided you do your homework. For some owners who can't bear to be away from their cat, it opens up the rest of the world for them both to explore.

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Getting There

Once the loving cat owner is done with his travel for the day, arriving at a motel or his destination, he often expects his cat to enjoy some rest and relaxation with him. Unfortunately, this is sometimes when a new problem kicks in -- territorial problems.

Here are a few ideas to make that first night in the motel room or destination a little easier on your cat.

First, make sure your cat is welcome! Your hosts will not appreciate it if you don't happen to mention you'll be bringing your cat along, and they are highly allergic! Many motels do not accept pets at all .. you can get a listing from AAA to avoid problems.

Second, move the cat and carrier into a small room, and let him be. Sometimes we want to show the cat to everyone to say "Hi!" but the cat is tired and overwhelmed, and highly stressed. Let him get used to the area first, and then do your introductions.

Third, don't expose the cat to the whole house at once. Remember that this is totally new territory for your cat. He doesn't know what new sight, sounds, or smells mean danger. Put the cat in a small room, open the carrier door, and keep him confined in there until he seems eager to explore farther. Never force him to look around -- let him determine at what rate he is ready to take in new things. When he is ready, open a few doors and give him access to more of the house .. but try to do it a little at a time.

Fourth, since the cat is going to face all these new sights, sounds, and smells, it may help to include a few familiar ones. Some people like to bring along the cat's favorite toys, and that may help. An even better idea is to include things that strongly carry your, or your cat's, smell. These will help calm a cat that is territorially stressed.

Fifth - the most calming sight, sound, and smell is probably you! With all the things to do when you arrive, be sure to stop back in and visit the cat.

Sixth, if you have the ability to maintain the cat's routine in the new area, try to maintain that. For example, if you generally feed the cat at 6 PM, try to maintain that, especially for the first few nights. Even though all the environmental cues may have changed, if you can maintain a similar routine as home, it may help avoid some problems.

Taking you cat to new areas may be a little upsetting, particularly for an older cat. He is completely off his territory, and will be challenged by all sorts of new stimuli. With a little help from you, you can be sure to make this transition as painless, and maybe even enjoyable, to your cat. Wouldn't it be great if you both got a vacation?

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Caring for Your Cat When You are Away

Being away from home and our cats can be hard on us, but it can be even harder on our cats. They are accustomed to a regular routine, and when the most important person in their world suddenly isn't there, it can produce a lot of stress. However, for many cats, traveling with their owner would be even more stressful, so the compassionate owner must find a way to give the cat the best care possible in their absence.

Many people find that a boarding facility offers a number of advantages that fit your needs. First, your cat is in a location specifically designed for animal care. Some have exercise areas, nooks for napping, and you can make special requests for your cat's individual care. Many facilities are run in vet clinics which means that your cat will be surrounded by caring and knowledgeable people most of the day. Having a vet nearby is also a big plus. However, the proximity to other animals, or fear developed from previous vet visits may make this harder on some cats. Perhaps the best types of cats for a boarding facility are younger ones that might enjoy a change in scenery, or older ones with potential health problems, where the presence of a veterinarian and the trained staff may offer an extra sense of security.

The other option for cat owners who decide not to take their cats with them is to find someone else to provide in-home care. Staying at home may help minimize some of the stress since for your cat, since his environment stays the same. It also avoids a car ride that many cats hate.

The most common provider of in-home care is usually a friend, family member, or neighbor. These people can be good choices because your cat may have developed some familiarity with them already, and you've probably raved about your cat enough with them that they feel they know him! These people often are familiar with your home, so they know right where to look for a cleaner if, heaven forbid, your cat has an accident on the carpeting.

Another option that is rapidly gaining popularity is professional in-home pet-sitters. These people are trained to care for cats that are stressed because their owner is away. Many can also perform small chores for you, like bringing in your mail or watering your plants, without you having to impose on your friends or family. Pet-sitters are generally bonded and insured as well, for your protection.

Pet-sitters need more than just a working key. Make sure you give them all the information to do their job.

Name & Description of the Cats
Feeding Instructions
Special Veterinary Instructions & Vaccination Records
Daily Routine, with times
Location of Pet Supplies
Favorite Toys & Games
Individual Likes and Dislikes of the Cats
Hiding Spots
Unusual Habits

Phone number for where you are traveling
Phone number for close friend who can make decisions in your absence
Phone number for your vet, and for the emergency vet

One important thing you can do for your cat before you leave is to prepare her for your departure. Talk to the person that will be caring for your pet, and find out when he or she will be around to take care of your cat. Cats are very sensitive to changes in their routine, particularly when you aren't there. You can help ease the transition by gradually shifting feeding and play sessions to match the schedule your cat will receive when you are away.

You can also desensitize the cat to other things before the big day arrives. Do you always come in through the backdoor? Start entering through the front if that's what the caretaker will do. Toss the cat a treat when you enter, to help teach her that the door brings good things! Another idea is to get a sweatshirt from the housesitter a week before for the cat to sniff. The cat will certainly have an easier time dealing with the new smells when you are home than when you are gone!

As you can see, a little preparation can make a big difference in how well your cat handles your absence. Caring owners will do all they can to try to make your travels not so unsettling to their cats.

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Moving

Moving with your cat doesn't have to be a nightmare. In fact, if your cat has a few annoying habits, it might be exactly what the doctor (pet shrink?) ordered. In your new home, your cat will have to start again by learning new rules that you can control. You may be leaving behind a number of the stimuli and bad habits that caused the problems in the first place.

Remember that your cat is a territorial animal, so moving will be stressful, but you can do a number of things to diminish their stress.

1. On the day of the move, isolate the cat in a small room. Cats have a tendency to hide or run away as they see the furniture go out the door, so keep the cat safe. Keep a collar with ID tags on your pet. Move the cat last, and bring the cat into the new house first, to minimize time in the car.

2. Don't expose the cat to the whole house at once. I would recommend closing the cat in one or two small uncarpeted rooms for the first few days. The best place would be one where the litterbox is going to stay. Also, using the litterbox is partly territorial, so the cat's smell will calm the cat down, and make this room his own.

3. Put familiar items in the room. Favorite toys are nice, but the best things have smells, like a favorite couch cushion or mat. Another good idea is to drop off one of your unwashed bed sheets. It has your smell, and should calm your cat.

4. With all the hectic responsibilities of a new home, don't forget to visit the cat often. You are a familiar smell, too!

5. Did the previous owner have any animals? If so, you might want to try to shampoo the rug with a pet odor remover. It'll keep a cat from hiding from that dog that's "around here somewhere!"

6. Use the same schedule that you used in the other house. If you fed them at 8 and at 5, stick to it! If you don't have the cat on a schedule now, start right away, and stick with it. Cats are very much routine-oriented, and a strict schedule often reduces stress that may be the cause of litterbox and spraying problems.

7. If there are behaviors or scheduling that you want to change, this is an excellent time to do it. While it might be a little more stressful for the animal to get used to being fed at 9 AM instead of the usual 6 AM, moving into a new house can re-set the cat's programming. With a change in all the situational cues, you might find that a change that would have taken months in your old place may now only take a few weeks.

This works especially well for converting an outdoor cat into an indoor one. Once a cat has gone to a location, they want to return. Now you have a new "outside." It may take a while (4-8 weeks) to define the outdoor cat's new boundaries, but with the move, he won't fight you nearly so much!

8. Forcing your cat to come out and investigate will only produce more resistance to the change. A cat that's hiding probably can't take in any more new stimulus right now. That's OK. Let the cat determine the rate. One client had their cats hide behind the washer, one-on-top-of-the-other, for five days. On day six though, they came out and were fine (except maybe for the back of the one on the bottom!). I also know of a person with Siamese cats that had to wait six weeks. Just be sure that at least a little food is being eaten by day three, and that the cats are staying healthy. If not, call the vet.

9. As the cat gets more and more used to the small room, and the sights, sounds, and smells associated with the new house, gradually increase the rooms they can roam into. Close doors and block off hallways so that you don't give the cat too much to deal with at once.

The last thing I should mention is that having multiple cats can be both good and bad in this situation. Of course a cat will be happy that the other, familiar cat is around. On the other hand, cats don't have strict hierarchical dominance relationships like dogs. For example, one cat may be used to being the king of the bed, the other the king of the dresser. Their dominance varies by the time of the day too - one is king of the bed in the morning, one at night. By moving, you will undo a lot of the rules that they have set up between each others. You can expect some degree of hissing, fighting, staring, replacing, ad infinitum, as they create their new boundaries. Relax and let them - its fascinating to watch, and rarely dangerous to your cats.

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Oral Behavior Problems

Suckling

While suckling is part of the young kitten's way of life, many people see their cat continue this behavior well past kittenhood. The common wisdom here is that it is more likely in cats that were weaned to early. In addition, since cats perceive us as parents and treat us with kitten-like behavior, suckling could also be seen in extremely well-bonded cats.

Suckling is not dangerous to the cat, and does not cause dental problems, as many believe. However, many owners don't approve of this behavior, particularly getting an ear-nibble at 3 AM!

If you'd like to change this behavior, the best option is controlled taste aversion. Put a product that tastes bad, like "Bitter Apple," on likely targets but do not reprimand the cat when she starts to suckle. This technique will allow the cat to decide on her own to stop the habit. Not only is this method very effective, but we don't risk punishing a cat for demonstrating a positive behavior towards us.

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Wool Sucking

One common target for suckling cats is cloth. There is anecdotal evidence that Siamese and Siamese-mix cats are more likely to engage in this behavior, but it can be seen in any cat. Some believe that the cats are attracted to the odor of lanolin in wool. Another possibility is that they are attracted to the smell of our perspiration, and since they see us as surrogate mothers, may suckle as if they were nursing.

While this behavior may appear cute at first, owners of cats like this are often very frustrated by the damage these cats can do to their clothes. Also, there is the possibility that the cats could ingest fibers that could produce serious veterinary problems.

Controlled taste aversion techniques, with products such as "Bitter Apple," can discourage the cat from continuing the behavior. Their delicate noses and tongues can be a great ally to stopping the habit. Also, keeping your clothes picked up and put away in a cat-proof drawer or laundry basket is another important step.

Eating Out of the Litterbox

Although primarily a problem with dogs, occasionally a few cats also eat out of their litterbox. Not a lot is known about the problem. Some scientists believe that this behavior, called "copraphagia," is more common in homes where the animals receive little stimulation. The animal may begin the behavior as play, investigating something new in the environment, but no one knows how it advances to eating. Another theory is that the animal is making up for some nutritional deficiency, but no studies have ever proved this yet.

Controlled Taste Aversion is often effective in these cases, but it can be difficult to perform. Some individuals have treated the stools immediately with a product to make them taste worse (which is a taste I can only guess at!) with a product called Bitter Apple, or cayenne pepper. The problem arises though that you'd need to monitor the cat constantly to know when she excretes. Another tactic is to include an additive to the animal's food that affects the wastes. A commercial product called 4-Bid is sometimes useful, as is MSG. Always consult your veterinarian before altering your pet's diet. A simpler way to help stop the habit is perhaps to clean the litterbox as often as possible.

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Licking Plastic Bags and Stamps

One of the consequences of our cat's superior sense of smell is that they can sometimes recognize tasty, but inappropriate, items to lick. The texture of the items might be attractive, but small components of the items are probably a better explanation. Plastic bags contain a series of fatty emollients for separating the bags, and these contain traces of animal resins. Rendered animal components can also be found in the adhesives in stamps.

These can create harmful blockages if ingested, so it's wise to keep them away from your pets.

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Eating or Licking Strange Items

A few cats out there have the strange habit of licking or eating odd substances, like dirt, concrete, metal, etc. Behaviorists call this "pica." While we used to think that there must be some dietary supplement the cat is lacking ("Why yes, I'm NOT getting enough concrete in my diet! Thanks for asking!"), we see the same behavior in cats with healthy diets. The best guess now is that these tastes are just momentarily interesting to the cat, or that some of it may be learned behavior to attract our attention.

Pica can be a dangerous. Cats that swallow rubber bands, string, or tinsel, can have blockages created if they tie up. The first step is of course, to keep these things out of the reach of their cats, and substitute safe toys.

Putting an unwanted taste over common targets that can't be put away (like a concrete wall) can be affective, as so can startling the cat with an unpleasant sound when you see the behavior. These negative associations may be able to deter the unwanted habit.

Finally, you might try distracting the cat by adding some new stimuli to the environment. Some cats find that having a buddy around the house is much more exciting than playing with inanimate objects. If an additional pet is out of the question, exercise sessions with new toys can help. If you can't be around for that, it may help to leave around entertainment the cat can engage in himself. For example, leaving empty boxes on the floor, hiding treats, a bird house near a favorite window, or even a cat video may all help redirect your cat's attentions.

Remember - he's doing this not because he's dumb, but because he's smart .. he's looking for more things around the home to figure out. If you can give him safe ways to do this, you'll both be happier.

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Inappropriate Chewing

Chewing problems are often medical, so the first step is always to schedule a trip to the veterinarian for a dental exam. For younger cats, we see similar behavior with kittens teething, but there are a number of other dental problems that could be causing the excessive chewing.

If the problem turns out to be behavioral, try placing "Bitter Apple" on likely targets to make the habit less pleasurable. Chewing on power cords electrocute many cats each year, so consider hiding them behind wall sconcings and in PVC tubing for problem behavior.

At the same time, try redirecting the cat biting to a more appropriate target. Purchase a new toy that has a totally different texture for easy differentiation, and praise the cat when he attacks it, and places it in his mouth.

Like dogs, some cats chew simply because they are bored, or stressed. Scheduled play sessions and teaching tricks work great, and magnify your relationship with the cat. When you can't be around, hiding toys or leaving out empty boxes on the floor can help the cat enjoy a good hunt. There are videos of birds produced to entertain your cat, if you don't want a birdhouse in your yard. Best of all, you may consider getting a second cat, if you have an only child.

To sum up, start with the vet -- no amount of behavioral training in the world is going to cure a medical problem. If the chewing turns out to be behavioral, redirect the chewing to break the habit.

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Excessive Grooming

Whenever a cat starts to lick himself a lot (technically called "autogrooming"), the first thing to do is to schedule a vet exam. Parasites and allergies are common causes of excessive grooming, but there are a number of other medical possibilities as well. Only a veterinarian can rule out a medical problem.

Excessive grooming is also common in healthy cats that are stressed. Some cat experts think that this behavior makes the cat feel more secure, like when mom used to groom him as a kitten. More precisely, we call this a displacement behavior. Like pacing helps humans, this allows the animal to release some of its energy in a non-productive way.

If the problem is behavioral, it is often the result of some change in the cat's environment. Your best way to deal with the problem them is to identify and minimize the cat's contact with the stimulus. Check your home for things that could be stressing the cat. Do you have strays outside? Young children? A chaotic work schedule? Is there a specific time or location that the cat does this? While we can't control the cat, we have pretty good control of his environment, and isolating the cause can help stop the behavior.

Sometimes just making your home more "cat-friendly" will help. Start out by making sure that there are abundant resources, such as separate litterboxes and food bowls. You are also a resource, so make sure your cat gets all the attention and play that he could want.

Speaking of play, it is a great tool for removing stress. Schedule a specific time every night when you will give your cat's a real workout. "Feather Flyers" are great for this, but look around for your cat's own choice of a favorite toy.

Schedules are also very important. Feeding should be done at the same time every day, and petting and exercise sessions can also be added. You can throw in extra events, but always make sure you make your appointments.

Finally, try to disconnect the habit. If there is a certain location he goes to when he wants to lick, block it off. If it happens at a certain time, try distracting him with something else before he gets there. In this way, we can get him to stop repeating undesirable habits while we reinforce his scheduled ones.

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The Fearful Cat

Fears

You've just taken in a new cat, and he seems petrified of you! What do you do?

The best way to solve this is through a process called "behavioral shaping." This merely means that your cat isn't going to be a lap-sitter on Day One -- you need to reward the cat for small changes in behavior toward the one you want.

The first step is to find out what your cat finds rewarding. Right now, when your cat runs off, he may be rewarded by feeling safer. You need to find a better reward that will make it worthwhile to face a small part of the fear. Most shy cats don't enjoy hugging and petting right off the bat; food rewards are a much better alternative. Not only do all cats get hungry, but with food rewards you may tie into the food-provider/mom behaviors that are already hardwired into our cat's brains. Feeding ties into these needs, and keeps our cats in a partial, kitten-like state, with the more affectionate kitten behaviors. Food rewards should have the same effect on feral cats as well.

Begin the training by selecting a few specific times each day when you will work with the cat. For the first two weeks, walk into the cat's room, call the cat, put down the food or treat, and then leave. This will help the cat associate your entry with the food, and start to desensitize the cat to your presence. On Week Three, I suggest sitting on the opposite side of the room while the cat eats.

After the association is made, then we move to the shaping. On Week Four, call the cat, and only reward the cat for a small action towards affection. You might want to start with something as small as looking at you. Maybe on Week Five, you want the cat to take one step toward you before you put down the treat. Week Six may mean coming out from under the bed. Eventually you should be able to move all the way up to having the cat sit in your lap.

Remember though, doing this gradually is the key. Let your cat determine how fast he can go, and try to be patient. We want him to determine how much small fears he can handle at once, and build upon them. We also want to build up lots of no-stress hours to help desensitize the cat to you. If you see the cat has become stressed, back up the training one week. Feral cats may take longer, but a shy, domestic cat may respond more quickly to the training .. after all, you have a head start over the ferals.

Finally, keep in mind that all cats are individuals. Some just will not be affectionate cats -- it is not in their individual personality. These cats can be very loving in their own way, so make sure you are open to their attempts. My mother has two cats, one that is so friendly that she will jump in your arms to be pet. The other one hates to be held, but will follow you room-to-room, just to sit with you .. just outside of arm's reach. So guess which one my mom called me about last year when she sat in her lap for the very first time?

Pet Shrink

Fear of Visitors

When you have guests over, does your cat go into hiding?

This isn't unusual. Your cat is suddenly confronted with a new creature, ten times his size, strolling onto his territory. Hiding is a natural reaction, and it's rewarding to the cat, since it probably makes him feel safer.

There are behavioral techniques that you can use, but be sure this is in the best interest of your cat. If you rarely have visitors coming over, or your cat is older, it might be easier on the cat in the long run to not go through the program at all. Try to determine what is the least stressful for the cat in the long run.

To begin with, I'll talk about a fear shaping program. Find a good friend who is willing to visit regularly for a couple of months, preferably at the same time each day. It doesn't matter if the cat doesn't come out from under the bed to start -- this is something far down the road.

Keep a box of cat treats outside the front door. While these are certainly not the most nutritious things in the world, a small treat or two each day should be fine along with a normal diet. Using a food treat is effective because cats have a hard time maintaining fear toward their food providers -- perhaps they see them as "mom."

For two weeks, simply have your friend get the treat, ring the doorbell, call the cat, toss the treat in the room, and leave. During this period the cat will begin to make the association that your friend equals food. This association can be made while the cat is still hiding under the bed.

For the next week or two, your friend should do everything the same, then sit on the floor in the opposite corner of the room for ten minutes. He (or she) shouldn't look at the cat (that's considered a threat) -- just help the cat desensitize to his presence.

The next step is the behavioral shaping. Your friend should sit on the floor, and only toss the treat for a small move in the right direction. For instance, you might want to start with something as small as looking in his direction. As soon as he sees the key behavior, praise the cat and toss the treat.

Gradually, over a period that the cat should determine, the training should move to rewarding more and more outgoing behaviors. Perhaps the next level is one step that isn't away from the trainer. The next could be one step toward the trainer. Perhaps then it is two steps. By rewarding closer and closer approximations of the desired behavior, and not doing too much at once, you can keep the cat in a low stress environment, going a little farther all the time. All of the previous steps are being repeated (i.e. - the cat is still looking at the trainer after a couple steps), so the initial ones are becoming desensitized. Eventually, by rewarding moves in the right direction, I've seen even extremely shy cats start jumping in laps!

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Fears at Night

Does your cat need to be near you all the time? Does she cry or howl when she doesn't know where you are? Does this happen especially at night?

This is a common problem, particularly for older cats. As they age, their physical abilities diminish, and they are less able to defend themselves against possible threats. They become more likely to engage in the same behaviors they did as a kitten that couldn't protect herself -- they cry for mom. This is especially common when our older cats start to lose their hearing. They can't tell where we are, particularly in the evening when our activity doesn't give out location away, and may cry and howl to get us to come to them.

One way to help a cat with a hearing problem is to concentrate on another one of their highly developed senses. I prefer smell, since it's such a big part of their natural behavior in identifying others.

Condition the cat to finding you at night by wearing a drop of perfume or cologne to bed. It doesn't take much -- the cat's nose is very sharp. Start off by opening the bottle in the bedroom, and giving the cat a treat. Repeat this for a couple weeks. Any time the cat comes to you when you are wearing the perfume, praise her for being so smart. Eventually she should learn to associate you with the smell, and be able to locate you that way.

This works best if you can maintain a nighttime routine, and try to stick with it. Going to bed at the same time every night will help your cat learn more quickly. It will also help her learn that you will always be in bed at a specific time, and perhaps she should check out the bedroom before simply calling for you.

Check out my article on the wake up cat to learn about techniques you can use to help the cat sleep through the night.

I should also point out that a vet exam is always a good idea here. There could be many health problems that can cause the cat to show this behavior, since they can all make the cat less able to defend herself. A vet exam can also rule these things out, so that you would know whether to look for a behavioral reason external (like stray cats) or internal to the cat that is producing the howling.

Finally, I know this can be a very frustrating problem. When you struggle out of bed at 2 AM, try to remember that this is only happening because your cat has bonded with you so closely, and sees you as mom.

Pet Shrink

Fear of Riding in the Car

Does your cat loathe a trip in the car? These great fears can be dangerous and disruptive to your cat. However, with a little patience and hard work, systematic desensitization can help. By gradually reducing the fear with little steps, you can work up to much better behavior.

Start by getting your cat comfortable with the cat carrier. Cats should never ride in a car outside of a carrier. Many people worry that the cat may become aroused and attack, and that's a possibility, but even hiding cats can be dangerous. A cat that hides under your seat is annoying, but one that hides under your break pedal is deadly!

Leave the carrier out for in the middle of the floor for a few days, so it can be explored whenever your cat feels like it. This will be perceived as new territory, so unless your cat has strong negative associations from previous encounters, he should start investigating it within a few hours. Place a few treats in it, or perhaps their food bowls. A favorite blanket inside might help as well.

Once your cat is comfortable with the carrier, try small steps with the car. Start off with brief visits to the car, without starting the motor. After a week of training, maybe the next week should be spent in an idling car. Gradually work up from short rides around the block to longer trips. I'm sure your vet wouldn't mind if you even brought the cat in to the waiting room a few practice visits!

The key to this training is to go slow, and let your cat decide how much can be handled at one time. If you start to see the cat becoming stressed, you are going too fast. Start over from wherever you were one week earlier. We want the cat to become bored with the previous steps, so only a little fear is faced each time. Always give rewards during and after every practice session, and soon a ride in the car may be no trouble at all.

Many people don't have time for this training, and ask me if there is anything they can do just on the day of a vet visit. First, stick to the daily routine as long as possible. Sudden changes quickly put the cat on edge. Lots of exercise before and after the visit can be helpful. Not only does it redirect energy towards an appropriate target (the toy), which you can praise -- but it also leaves them less to use on getting upset! Finally, try not to be stressed yourself. Cats read our body language quite easily, and if you appear calm, it should help calm your cat.

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Fears of Thunderstorms

Individual cats have very different fears of thunderstorms. I've seen cats that seem to have no fear of the loudest thunderstorms, and cats that almost run and hide on any cloudy day.

Part of the difference must certainly be learned behavior. Cats that grow up around a lot of storms, perhaps cats in Seattle, have experienced storms repeatedly as they grew up, and the majority will probably not fear storms. On the other hand, the cat that lives in Death Valley has not had repeated opportunities to desensitize to storms. Storms can be very loud, particularly for the cat's sensitive ears, and there is some evidence that they can detect changes in electric fields that the storms bring. That may be a lot for a cat to go through.

If your cat has a fear of thunderstorms, it doesn't have to be a permanent problem. Try to minimize the influence that the storm may have, perhaps by putting the cat in an interior room without windows. Don't reward your cat for being upset. It's OK to provide brief comfort, but then go about your business as usual.

Another good approach is to use gradual desensitization. Make a recording of a thunderstorm, and then replay it for the cat at very low volumes while you go about your daily routine. Make sure you start at such a low volume that the animal isn't stressed at all. Toss the cat a few treats to help form positive, rewarding associations with the sounds. After a number of daily sessions, gradually increase the volume, making sure to not go past the pet's stress level. Continue rewarding the cat's calmness at every stage, but if the cat becomes agitated, back up the training a week and start again from there. With this approach, after a number of weeks you should be able to get the volume to match a real storm, and the cat will have experienced it so much that it will not stress her.

Finally, one important thing to remember in a thunderstorm is to try not to worry about your cat so much that you become stressed yourself. Cats are masters at reading our body language. If we suddenly start running around the house, slamming windows shut, and worrying about how our cat will react .. it won't be pretty. Try to remain calm, perhaps pet the cat a few times to reassure you both, and hopefully thunderstorms will not be such a problem.

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Introducing New Pets

Introducing Cats

Before I get started, let me point out that cat dominance is not nearly as simple as dog dominance, and requires greater understanding. Dogs have thousands of years of pack instincts to call upon. In any grouping of dogs, one will demonstrate his dominant (alpha) position to all other pack members in all situations. Cats are primarily solitary hunters, and so must learn all of the rules they need to coexist with another cat in their area. Cats must decide who is the king of the couch, and who is king of the chair, and if it changes at dinner time, or if someone else is around, or a hundred other reasons known only to the cats. Because cats in close quarters must make extensive negotiations, it's no wonder that cats rarely get along well right from the start.

Most of these negotiations must be worked out between the cats alone. If we intervene, it often just adds stress and changes their rules to say, "When the big guy is around, we'll play nice, but when he isn't, we'll still have to work it out." Discipline rarely works - it also adds to the stress level. This is not to say you shouldn't break up fights where you see blood, but usually the growling and swatting is not dangerous. Remember these animals are designed with sharp carnivore teeth and claws -- if they really wanted to hurt the other cat, they could. Generally, "No blood, no foul" is a good rule of thumb.

This doesn't mean there's nothing you can do. While you can't control how they interact, you can control their environment. Try to present one that will reduce the need for conflict as much as possible. Separate food dishes, water bowls, individual litterboxes, and private play and petting time will reduce their need to compete for resources.

Another good tactic is to try to get them near each other in low stress situations. The more you can do that, the quicker they will desensitize to each other. You might want to start off by keeping a door between them, so they can only bat under it while they become accustomed to the sounds and smells of the other cats. Introduction periods should be done from opposite sides of the room during times when it is hard for them to become aroused, perhaps thirty minutes after a meal. Let them run off if they want, but over a few weeks you should be able to gradually move them closer or put them together longer. The key is to never make an encounter too stressful. Let your cats determine how fast they can handle it.

Scheduled play sessions are another good idea. Get a string pull toy, or whatever the individual cats like, and really give them a workout. Usually one will chase for awhile, then an onlooker will take a turn, and so forth. This provides a rewarding experience with the other cats nearby, and redirects their aggression toward an appropriate toy and not each other.

Finally, the key last ingredient is patience. It usually takes a little time before the new cat family will settle down. By creating a calm environment, and giving them lots of attention, you should see the problem disappear.

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Introducing Cats & Kittens

Kittens aren't always the best choice when adding a new member to your home and your adult cats. While the kitten does not pose much of a threat, the high activity level can be annoying for the older cats. As they grow and reach maturity, they will struggle for territory in the household as well. Older cats may react better to another adult cat, and they may make a better relationship in the long run. We also act differently when we get a kitten, and this can create another change in the older cat's routine that can cause stress.

While you can't control how your cat and kitten interact, you can control their environment. Try to present one that will reduce the need for conflict as much as possible. Separate food dishes, water bowls, individual litterboxes, and private play and petting time will reduce their need to compete for scarce resources.

Another good tactic is to try to get them near each other in a low stress situation. The more you can do that, the quicker they will desensitize to each other. You might want to start off by keeping a door between them, so they can only bat under it while they become accustomed to the sounds and smells of the other cats. Introduction periods should be done from opposite sides of the room during times when it is hard for them to become aroused, perhaps thirty minutes after a meal. Let them run off if they want, but over a few weeks you should be able to gradually move them closer or put them together longer. The key is to never make an encounter too stressful. Let your cats determine how fast they can handle it.

Another good technique is scheduled play sessions. Get a string pull toy, such as a feather flyer, and really give them a workout. This is especially important for the kittens, as their energy levels can often annoy the older cats. Often, both will play, taking turns being the stalker and onlooker. This provides a rewarding experience with the other cats nearby, and redirects their aggression toward an appropriate toy and not each other.

Finally, the key last ingredient is patience. It usually takes a little time before the new cat family will settle down. By creating a calm environment, and giving them lots of attention, you should be able to help them get used to each other.

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Introducing Cats & Dogs

If you are planning on bringing a cat and dog together under one roof, start the introduction before they even meet! The key to the process is called "systematic desensitization" which simply means you give each animal small, but gradually increasing, stimuli while you keep them in a relaxed state. For example, you can exchange each pet's bedding with the other, so they both can get used to the smells of the other animal in a low-stress situation before actually meeting. Some people recommend doing the same thing for sound, so they will often use tape recordings of the other animal at very low settings.

General stress reduction techniques will help the process as well. Put both animals on a routine for feeding, play, and affection, and maintain that routine both before and after the animals are brought together. Scheduled play sessions are great stress relievers for both dogs and cats, too!

When you first bring the dog and cat together under one roof, keep the two animals separated for the first few days. This will give both animals the chance to desensitize to all the new smells and sounds of the house, without having to face each other. For a dog, you might consider crate training. For a cat, select a small, uncarpeted room that will hold their litterbox, to help the cat establish a small territory of their own in the house, and prevent litterbox or spraying problems. Visit the cat often, and try to make the experience as positive as possible. Schedule a specific time every day for feeding, play, attention, etc. Then stick to it, so that the cat understands the new routine, to further reduce stress.

Eventually, try desensitizing the cat and the dog face-to-face. Start off with very short visits from far away. Some people recommend visits after meals when both animals are lethargic. Others like to use distracters, like food or toys, to make the other animal seem not so exciting. Try both, and figure out what works for your animal. Above all, don't go any faster than either animal is ready for. Patience now can pay off for years to come.

One word of warning -- make sure the dog realize that the cat is now part of their pack. This is particularly important with breeds that don't have good histories with cats, so do your homework! Have the dog perform obedience commands during the introductions. This will reinforce your position as the alpha, and make the dog more accepting of your decision to accept the cat into your pack.

Usually, the animals will work it out by themselves. In many cases, the dog sticks his nose somewhere that the cat feels is inappropriate, and gets a swipe. The dog will react instinctually to the nose pain and begin to act submissively to the cat. The cat will eventually desensitize to the dog's new behavior, and they end up solving the problem themselves. You'll just need to get the process started.

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Cats and Kids

WHAT KIND OF CAT IS BEST FOR A 6 YEAR OLD WHO LOVES TO HOLD AND PLAY WITH ANIMALS?

Umm... a stuffed cat?

Seriously, young children will be fine with individual cats provided they receive a lot of education that this is a live animal. Psychologists have found that without this training, children under the age of eight really don't discriminate between a toy and a real animal.

One game that helps is what I call the "mirror" game. Tell the child that he is a living animal, just like the cat, and he feels things just like the cat. Ask the child to lightly squeeze the cat's paw, and at the same time you squeeze his hand. Repeat this often, until he or she understands the connection between his actions and the cat. Next use the toy cat. When the child squeezes the toy, don't squeeze back. Teach the cat that he can squeeze this cat, and it won't feel pain because it isn't alive. Repeat this regularly as well.

Another good way to teach the child to touch an animal appropriately, is to use other animals as examples. Ask her "How hard would you pet a dog?" "How hard would you pet an elephant?" "How hard would you pet a mouse?" "How hard would you pet a cat?" These can help her distinguish the difference between the animals.

Set up a "free zone" in your house. Explain to the child that, just like in a game of tag, if the cat gets there, he can't be bothered. This is an important technique for helping the cat establish a territory in the house so that he is comfortable with the child.

You can also ask the child to feed the cat. Cats often begin to see food providers as "moms," so this should help enhance their relationship.

All of these actions might sound like a lot of work, but they are worth it. Besides providing safety for your cat, it protects your child from bites and scratches. Moreover, cats can live up to twenty years - and that's a long time to have a pet that avoids your child.

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Alternatives to Gradual Desensitization

Some cats have such extreme reactions to one another, that gradual desensitization techniques that would help most other cats aren't right for them. When this happens I recommend a different type of desensitization called "flooding." In flooding, you attempt to desensitize the cat by giving the cat access to so much stimuli for so long, that it becomes impossible to stay aroused, and the cat begins to get used to it. Compare it to people that slowly wade into a cold lake versus those that dive in head first. Different strokes for different folks.

Select a neutral room, and place both cats in carriers about three feet apart. Face the carriers toward each other, so that each cat faces the other. This is sure to bring about a lot of yowling, hissing, etc. for quite a while. Ignore them. Cats sleep between 16-18 hours a day, so after a while (maybe 4-6 hours) they simply won't be able to continue being aroused. Repeat these tactics regularly for a week, and then try supervised meetings. In many cases, they will have become conditioned to not respond aggressively to the sights and sounds of the other cat.

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Biting and Aggression

Biting

A cat that bites is hard to ignore! There are a number of possible causes for this behavior, and most of the commonly taught responses will not work for this problem. Cats are not dogs, and do not always respond submissively to us when we punish.

Using a squirt bottle is not always a good way to discourage biting. If a cat is biting you in play, he may react to the squirt bottle like it is just another one of your attacks, and increase his aggression. And of course there are those crazy cats out there that like to be squirted! In fact, almost any punishment will usually fail to solve these problems. In cats, it just raises the anxiety level, and causes more bad behaviors and reduces the ability to learn.

A better approach is to diffuse the habits before they get to the point where instincts take over. Here are some common rules:

First - hands are for petting, or giving food. Never use your hands to play or wrestle with your cat - always use a toy.

Second - make sure your cat has the proper outlet for his biting with scheduled play periods. "Ankle-stalkers" often just need some fun in their lives, so your movements aren't quite so appealing. Find a toy that your cat likes, such as a "Feather Flyer," and wear the cat out. This should lower his anxiety level and aggression, and reduce the likelihood that he'll try to bite you. Some cats also seem to develop a preference for the texture of a certain thing they bite, so unless you wear feathers, this might help protect you as well.

Third - Never reward biting. If your cat bites you to wake you up in the morning, never get up and feed the cat! A better response is to put the cat in a nearby carrier for ten minutes of "kitty time-out."

Fourth - Avoid the precursors to the behavior. If your cat gets wound up late at night, maybe you should stay out of his normal attack zones. Scheduled play periods can also diffuse the situation. If your cat bites you in the morning to wake you up, perhaps you should close the bedroom door.

Some cats suddenly bite when overstimulated from petting. If your cat is like this, you'll need to watch him closely for the signs that precede an attack, such as whiskers forward, tail twitching, etc. If you see those signs, don't push the cat away - just stop petting. When the cat has calmed, begin petting again. Many cats will become less sensitive to petting the more you do it in this manner, and your cat will probably enjoy petting sessions more.

Fifth - Make the biting less pleasurable. During high risk events, take precautions. If your cat likes to bite your hands during a playing session, perhaps you should spray your hand with "Bitter Apple" to make yourself less tasty.

By not punishing, making the biting less rewarding, and redirecting the behavior, most biting problems can be handled in weeks.

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Biting the Hand that Pets You

Your cat's eyes lazily start to close as she relaxes even further down into your lap. She's clearly enjoying being petted .. listen to that purr! Your mind starts to wander, and suddenly, OUCH! Your cat just bit you .. hard! Where did that come from?

Behaviorists have a large number of possible explanations for this type of biting. As a species, cats aren't used to a lot of contact. While a lot of dog/dog communication takes this form, generally adult cats will only come into physical contact with each other during mating or fights. Even the few feral cats that engage in mutual grooming (allogroomers) are often only found in close communities, usually only females, toward siblings, and even then only when food is abundant.

So why do our cats accept any petting from us at all? This is because when we provide food, care, and comfort, they begin to treat us as kittens treat their mothers. Even adult cats will engage in kitten-like behaviors when that bond is there. However, some behaviorists believe that we are different enough from mom-cats that there are instances when we might not be seen as "mom." If we are in close contact at that time, the cat may react as if in a fight and bite us defensively.

The other time cats come into contact with each other - mating - could be a cause too. This type of biting is most common in unspayed females, and they particularly react to petting at the back of the neck, shoulders, or the base of the tail. All of these locations are important sites in mating behavior, and the cats have more nerve bundles and thinner flesh covering these spots. The enhanced sensitivity here can be a problem, so sterilization, or avoiding these locations during a petting session may help reduce the problem.

Speaking of sensitivity, a veterinary problem could also be the cause. If your stroking happens upon an injury or painful area you weren't aware of, the cat may bite. A veterinary exam is always a good idea.

Dr. Bonnie Beaver has yet another theory. She believes that cats are such proficient nappers, that a relaxed cat might go into a "micro-sleep." When the cat awakens to physical contact, a defensive bite may occur.

Finally, the experiences of the individual cat may also play a role. Many people, and even vets, will give a cat a little petting in order to calm him down before they can grab him (and perhaps give him an injection!). Cats have long memories. While the cat may react well to your petting early on, the more you pet him the more the social needs are met. Your cat may remember that time you got him out from under the bed at the wrong time, and bite.

What to Do

You've read the possible causes, and have ruled out a few for your cat. How can you protect yourself without resorting to metal gauntlets?

First, realize that you have a cat that can become overstimulated when you pet her, and take the appropriate precautions. Whenever you pet your cat, watch closely for the physical signs that precede an attack, such as her whiskers moving forward, tail twitching, ears rotated, etc. If you see those signs, don't push the cat away - just stop petting. When the cat is calm again, resume petting. Many cats will become less sensitive to petting the more you do it in this manner, and your cat will probably enjoy petting sessions more.

If you do get bit, say "Ouch!" in a high voice, and don't move your hand. This is an internal signal from her days of playing with other kittens, and you can use it to help your cat recognize that she's gone too far. Try not to take the bite personally, since it's as instinctive a reaction as our knee-jerk response. Don't punish the cat, in this state, it will only increase her level of arousal. Also, don't throw the cat off your lap. We want the cat to realize that her behavior is inappropriate, not that being in your lap is dangerous.

Remember, petting your cat is as good for you as it is for your cat. It also helps enhance the bond between you both. With a little preparation, you can keep petting your cat without risking those painful bites.

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Redirected Aggression

Sometimes when our cat bites or claws us, it was something else that really deserved it! Behaviorists call this "redirected aggression." For example, if your cat sees a neighborhood stray outside the window, and he has no outlet for the arousal, it might be released on the first moving target seen. When your cat is this excited, he probably couldn't distinguish you as his loving owner.

The best way to deal with redirected aggression is to eliminate the stimulus that elicits it. In our example with a stray cat, first talk to your neighbors and see if the cat is theirs. Even if your community does not have leash laws for cats, owners are responsible for keeping the cat on their own property. For strays, animal control or your local humane society may be able to help. You might be able to discourage the cat on your own with pet repellents, or perhaps some remote deterrents. If your sprinkler comes on at random times, the stray cat may decide to leave your "haunted" house alone.

Inside your home, restrict your cat from seeing the intruder. Try to determine the other cat's schedule, and block off the room with the windowsill at these times from your cat. Closing the curtains, or placing double-sided tape on the windowsill can also help prevent your cat from seeing the visitor. However, cats have extremely sensitive hearing and smell, so the best advice is still to keep the cat off your property entirely.

OK, lets assume none of the above is working, and you know that your cat has gotten excited. Many cats can remain aroused for up to three hours, so be careful! Trying to calm the cat by petting him is probably not going to work. Don't do things to increase the arousal, like yelling at the cat, punishing the cat, or using the water bottle. If you can, let the cat calm down on the cat own. Cats sleep an average of 16-18 hours a day, so by doing nothing, biology will usually come to your rescue.

Finally, suppose you need to enter that room, and you can't wait for that catnap. Since the aggression is being redirected anyway, redirect it away from you with an even a better target. "Feather Flyers" are handy tools here, as are small toys that you can throw. A good play session should help wear out the cat, and desensitize the cat to further intrusions.

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The Outdoor Cat

Turning Outdoor Cats Into Indoor Ones

The first question I always get from owners who are considering turning their outdoor cat into an indoor-only animal is always, "Should I do it? She seems so unhappy! Wouldn't her quality of life be better if she could go outside?"

I respect people that ask this question, because they are concerned with the happiness and welfare of their pet. However, the question is a difficult one for me to answer, because each owner (and each cat's) personality vary greatly on "quality of life issues," and it is a subjective, not a scientific, question.

I can tell you that in my opinion the quality of life is much higher indoors for my cats. Keeping a cat exclusively indoors eliminates or dramatically reduces the top ten feline causes of death. So far, no cars have driven through my living room! The average life span of a cat with access to the outdoors is two years (if they survive kittenhood) versus indoor cat's twelve or more years. However, this statistic may also reflect better ownership and not solely the dangers from being outside..

Indoor cats are healthier while they are alive too, if you factor health into your quality of life decisions. Indoor cats simply do not face the number of accidents, animal and cruel people attacks, poisonings, parasites, and diseases such as feline leukemia and FIP that outdoor cats must endure.

Some owners argue that their cat enjoys being outside, and wouldn't rob the cat of his natural lifestyle. This is a good point, but there are other factors to consider as well. Domestic cats have been bred to not be as equipped to deal with the outdoors as their wild cousins. No cat has evolved to face the number one killer - the automobile. In addition, our lifestyle jeopardizes them as well. Your cat might traipse up to a loose dog looking to play, just like he's always done with your housedog.

Turning outdoor cats into indoor ones requires a lot of work, distraction, and an iron will. Some experts suggest gradually reducing access to the outdoors, but I prefer a quick ending. Every outdoor visit reinforces their territorial instincts, and may increase spraying, since they cannot patrol their territories as often. Cats are creatures of schedules and routine, so they will fight this, by yowling and occasionally destructive behavior. Keep some earplugs by the bed, and don't give in. Every day they don't visit the old territory is one day closer to the cats not considering it the their own.

At the same time, redirect the cat’s energies with play and games that can enhance the quality of life of your indoor cats. Scheduled play sessions and teaching tricks work great, and enhance your relationship with the cats. When you can't be around, hiding toys or leaving empty boxes on the floor can help the cats still enjoy a good hunt. There are videos of birds produced to entertain your cats, or you could hang a birdhouse by a favorite window.

For an animal behaviorist, quality of life questions are very difficult to answer. We are scientists, so I look for evidence (accident reports, causes of death statistics, etc.) that may, or may not, factor into your philosophical equation about the "quality of life." Truthfully, if you kept your cats in sterile cages all their lives, that would probably further reduce the death statistics further. Philosophically however, I compare the short lives outdoor cats lead (equivalent to reaching our human teens) versus a long happy life with a loving owner, and for me, it is no contest -- all my cats will be indoor animals.

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Preventing Lost Cat

One of the most difficult situations for a cat owner is to lose their cat. Of the people who report cats missing to animal control agencies, less than one in ten ever find their cat again. However, a few preventive actions beforehand can greatly increase your chances of being reunited.

Here is a quick list of things you can do to prevent your cat from becoming lost, and to help the cat get back home.

1. Keep your cat indoors.
2. Sterilize your cat to reduce wandering.
3. Keep a collar on your cat at all time, with current identification.
4. Microchip your pet.
5. Keep a couple black and white photographs of your pet in case you need to post flyers.

If you do find your cat is missing.

6. Contact your local animal control or animal shelter.
7. Talk to your neighbors, ask them to open their garage doors.
8. Put up flyers nearby, and with local merchants with high-traffic.

Include discrete data: age, color, sex, sterilization status, distinctive markings or scars, location, date he disappeared. Leave out behavioral information, that may change when he's lost (sweet, knows his name).

All of these efforts are still no guarantee, but should greatly increase your chances of helping your pet get back home.

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If You Find a Cat

So you've found a cat, and you want to help her find her owner. Good for you! It can be a lot of work, but the smiles you'll receive if you can reunite this cat with her distraught owner is a once-in-a-lifetime reward.

The best chance to find the cat's owner is generally with local effort. Call the local animal controls and humane societies with a description of the cat. Also check with some of the local veterinarians, and see if they have a network for lost pets. Sometimes veterinarians will help you with a description, as they check the cat's health (always keeps these animals separated from your own pets until their health has been established).

Include discrete information in your description of the cat, like:

Sex
Sterilization status (if you can tell)
Declaw status
Approximate age
Color
Collar - if the cat has one
Distinctive markings, like scars
Location and date you found him

Leave out information that may not be a good description. Things like, "very shy" or "underweight" may clearly not help the original owner recognize their cat from the day he was lost.

Include this information in flyers posted at high traffic local stores. Photocopies made from a color picture can be very helpful as well. Many newspapers will also allow you to post a free "Found" Ad in the local papers as well.

Finally, you may want to withhold one defining remark about the cat. This is for the cat's protection, so that the person who says he's the owner will have to tell you that last bit. In some areas, animal collectors or "bunchers" will claim to be the owners of cats, and sell them to medical research. If the person has to identify another distinguishing mark, it will help you avoid these people.

Thanks again for helping this cat find her home!

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Cat Collectors

Identifying a cat collector is sometimes difficult. The word "collector" implies neglect, and with the proper resources, time, and compassion, large numbers of cats can be cared for humanely. However, as the numbers get higher and higher, a serious problem can often develop.

Randall Lockwood, Ph.D., of the Humane Society of the United States wrote a brief item on the psychology of animal collectors. An early formal study in 1981 by Dooley Worth and Alan Beck of 31 cases handled by the ASPCA gave some support to the traditional characterization of collectors as "cat ladies" living in isolation, but there was considerable variation in the demographics of collectors. More than two thirds were women, and over 70% were unmarried. Most began their collections early, often in their twenties. Although all of the collectors in this study were somewhat removed from mainstream society, very few had been institutionalized or diagnosed as suffering from acute mental disorders.

We know a little more about the psychology behind animal collecting because many courts are ordering collectors in extreme cases of neglect to seek professional counseling.

Very few collector cases simply involve good intentions gone awry, despite the insistence of the collector that he or she loves the animal and wants to save lives. This is clear to investigators who have witnessed the filth and decay in which many of these animals are forced to live.

The current models suggested to account for their actions include:

Obsessive Compulsive Disorder - The impulse to amass a large collection of some item simply for the sake of collecting. These houses are generally in shambles, and they often have huge piles of newspapers, or bottles in addition to their animal collections. In many cases, the onset of this disorder coincides with the loss of a loved one. With the tragic number of animals that must be euthanized because of overpopulation, the individual refuses to let their pets have this happen to them, regardless of the animal's conditions. It is quite resistant to treatment.

Addiction. Dr. Karen Kemper points out the number of common traits between animal collectors and substance abusers. These include: preoccupation with the addiction (animals), denial that the addiction exists, alibis for behavior, isolation from society except from those who also deal with the addiction (enablers), neglect of personal and environmental conditions, and repetition of the behavior.

Zoophilia. A small number of collectors may fit into this category, a psychosexual disorder in which animals play a major role in the individual's real or symbolic sexual fantasies.

Need for Power and Control Samantha Mullen, New York State Humane Association, suggests some collectors that are involved in outright animal torture fit into this category. Collectors who fit this description may beat or abuse their captives, despite their insistence on their love for their animals.

None of these models are mutually exclusive, and the actions brought about by these illnesses are horrible. What the professional community defines as a "collector" is obviously very different than someone who just has a lot of cats. If you are concerned that someone you know may be a collector, try to visit and see if the person can adequately care for that many animals. It's more than the number of animals that they have - its the care that they can provide. If you are still in doubt, please contact your local agency fighting against animal abuse.

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Pet Shrink's Feline Behavior Series

Introduction

About the Author

The Feline Behavior Series