A Brief History of Canadian Lighthouses
A Brief History of Canadian Lighthouses
(Last Updated 19-May-02)
Copyright © 2002, StiffCrust@aol.com
Contents
Roughly a millenium ago, Vikings settled near L'Anse Aux Meadows, in
western Newfoundland. Several centuries later, Christopher Columbus, nephew
of the lightkeeper at La
Lanterna in Genoa, set sail for the New World. The millions of immigrants
who eventually followed were beckoned to a safe landing in their new homeland
by some of the historic lighthouses described here.
The 18th Century
The first lighthouse in North America was on Little Brewster Island in
the outer harbor of Boston. First lit in 1716, it was damaged during the
American Revolution and subsequently rebuilt (1783). Nowadays Boston
Light is one of the very last of the manned lighthouses in North America,
all others having been automated.
The second-oldest lighthouse on the continent, and the first Canadian
one, went into service at the French fortress of
Louisbourg
on Cape Breton island in 1734. Patterned after the lighthouse of Les
Baleines built off La Rochelle in 1682, the beacon at Louisbourg was
destroyed by British troops during the seige of 1758, and not rebuilt until
1842; the
rubble of the
original lighthouse is still visible at the base of the current
Louisbourg lighthouse, which dates from 1924.
Next came the lighthouse on Sambro
Island in 1760. Located at the entrance to Halifax harbor, it has been
upgraded over the years but remains the oldest continuously-operating lighthouse
in North America, predating New Jersey's Sandy
Hook lighthouse by 4 years, and such venerable lighthouses as Virginia's
Cape Henry,
Maine's photogenic Portland
Head, and Long Island's Montauk
Point lighthouses by 3 decades.
Another early lighthouse in the Maritime provinces, at Cape
Roseway (McNutt's Island) dates from 1788 when Shelburne (NS) was booming
as the largest settlement of United Empire Loyalists on the continent.
The 92-foot octagonal masonry tower was braced with wooden timbers and
had a clapboard exterior, and unfortunately it was damaged beyond repair
by fire after being hit by lightning in 1959.
In 1791 the first lighthouse was built on Partridge Island at the entrance
to Saint John (New Brunswick). Six years earlier, the first immigration
quarantine station in Canada had been established there. The other major
quarantine station, at Grosse
Ile in Quebec, was built as a hasty response to the cholera epidemic
of 1832. In that same year, the original lighthouse at Partridge Island
was destroyed by fire. In 1859 the second lighthouse was equipped with
the first steam-powered fog whistle, an invention of Robert
Foulis. The third Partridge
Island lighthouse was operational from 1880 until it was replaced by
a concrete octagonal tower in 1959.
Early 19th Century
Gibraltar
Point lighthouse was built on what is now known as Toronto Island in
1808. After 99 years of service it was decommissioned in 1907, but remains
as the oldest existing lighthouse on the Great Lakes, since the one built
in 1804 on Mississauga
Point at the mouth of the Niagara River was demolished to make room
for fortifications during the War of 1812. Other early lighthouses on Lake
Ontario included False
Ducks Island in 1828, Point Petre in 1831, Nine
Mile Point in 1833, and Presqu'ile
in 1840. The latter two are still standing, although Presqu'ile
had its lantern removed in 1965. In that same year, False Duck was demolished
and its lantern eventually became the centrepiece of Mariner's Memorial
Lighthouse Park and Museum near Milford ON.
Meanwhile in Lower Canada (i.e. Quebec), Trinity House, patterned after
the British organisation, was established in 1805. One of their first projects
was to build a lighthouse on Ile
Verte at the treacherous junction of the Saguenay and Saint Lawrence
rivers. The 40-foot masonry tower of 1809 vintage is the 3rd-oldest Canadian
lighthouse, and served as a model for those built downstream at Pointe
des Monts in 1830, at Southwest
Point and Heath
Point (the eastern tip) on shipwreck haven
Anticosti Island in 1835,
at South Pillar
and Ile
Bicquette in 1843, and at Ile
Rouge in 1848.
In 1813 the earliest lighthouse on Newfoundland was built at Fort
Amherst to mark "The Narrows" of St. John's harbor. Cape
Spear and Cape
Bonavista were built by Britain's Trinity House in 1836 and 1843, receiving
the old reflector
lamp apparatus from Scotland's famous Inchkeith and Bell
Rock lighthouses, respectively.
The shipbuilding boom in Canada's Atlantic Provinces prompted a flurry
of lighthouse construction, starting in 1829 with Head
Harbour on Franklin D. Roosevelt's beloved Campobello Island (New Brunswick)
in the Bay of Fundy. In 1832 the original 1809 lighthouse on Brier's Island
at the tip of Digby Neck in Nova Scotia was replaced; the current
lighthouse dates from 1944. An important beacon was built in 1830 on desolate
Seal Island, 18 miles
off the southern tip of Nova Scotia and at the gateway to the Bay of Fundy.
The timbers of its 67-foot octagonal tower have proven to be amazingly
durable, although the 1903-vintage lantern and its 1st-order Fresnel lens
were replaced (and moved to a replica lighthouse
museum in Barrington Passage) in 1979. In fact the 8-sided wooden pattern
was used in many subsequent Canadian lighthouses, notably in 1831 at wave-washed
Gannet Rocks
in the Bay of Fundy, at Port
Burwell on Lake Erie, and in 1840 at Cape
Forchu marking the entrance to Yarmouth harbor. In 1962 the
original Yarmouth light was replaced by a distinctive concrete
tower known locally as "the applecore".
Numerous shipwrecks led to the construction in 1839 of lighthouses at
Scatari Island and at both ends of St.
Paul Island in Cape Breton. The original
towers were of traditional wood construction, but when the south light
burned down in 1914 it was replaced by a cast-iron cylindrical tower; the
north tower was replaced circa 1970.
The 60-foot conical brick tower
built during 1845-7 at Point
Prim is the oldest lighthouse on Prince Edward Island. It was designed
and built by Isaac Smith, the same eminent architect who designed Province
House in Charlottetown.
Around mid-century, the use of whale or seal oil as lantern fuel was
alleviated by the development of kerosene by Dr.
Abraham Gesner.
In 1851, a 40-year old mechanism from the Isle of May in Scotland
was installed atop Newfoundland's new Cape
Pine lighthouse. The tower was designed by the British firm Alexander
S. Gordon using the same prefabricated cast-iron approach as Gibb's
Hill, Bermuda and other outposts of the Empire. Subsequently, despite
being unsuitable for the damp and cold winters, many cast-iron lighthouses
were built in
Newfoundland, including Channel-Port aux Basques in 1875,
Lobster Cove
Head in 1892, and the lighthouse
which now guards the National
Museum of Science & Technology which, after 50 years of service
at Cape Race, was dismantled and re-erected with a new lantern at Cape
North (NS) in 1906. Then in 1980, after a local outcry had kept the Seal
Island lantern from being taken away, the historic lighthouse at the
northern tip of Cape Breton was instead targeted for relocation to Ottawa.
In 1884, public clamour following the 1867 Queen
of Swansea tragedy led to a cast-iron lighthouse being erected
at the summit of Gull
Island, off Newfoundland's Baie Verte peninsula. At an elevation of
525 feet, it is the
highest light on the eastern seaboard.
The Imperial Lights, 1857-60
By the mid 19th century it was apparent that the economic development of
British North America was being hampered by obsolete navigational aids.
Lobbying by the Admiralty and by Canadian shipping magnates such as Montreal's
Hugh Allan resulted in an ambitious 3-year building program, where all
material and construction costs would be borne by Great Britain. The so-called
"Imperial" lights were tall conical towers of brick or masonry construction where,
in some cases, the granite was quarried and prepared by Scottish stonemasons, and shipped
to the colony as ballast. By 1850's standards they must have seemed Imperial, i.e. built
to withstand the ages.
Four of these towers were built along the approaches to the Saint Lawrence:
at Cap des
Rosiers on the Gaspe peninsula; in the Straits of Belle
Isle; at Pointe
Amour near L'Anse au Loup on the Labrador coast; and at West
Point on Anticosti Island. At 112 feet (34 m), the latter rivalled
Cap des Rosiers
as the tallest lighthouse in Canada until its replacement by an airport-type
beacon
and demolition in 1967.
Six Imperial Towers were built on Lake Huron, at Point
Clark, and on islands named Chantry,
Nottawasaga,
Christian,
Griffith, and Cove.
Construction of these limestone towers was entrusted to John Brown (1808-76).
They were all 80 feet tall, the exception being Christian Island, a 55-foot
tower comparable to Brown's 1858 lighthouse at Burlington.
Construction of the 60-foot wooden lighthouse built on a caisson offshore
from Point
Pelee in Lake Erie was also undertaken in 1859; it was replaced in
1902 by a lighthouse built of steel plates, which can be seen today at
Lakeview
Park in Windsor.The Queens
Wharf lighthouse in Toronto harbour was built in the 1860's and in
1913 was moved to the corner of Lakeshore Drive and Fleet Street, where
it can be seen today. The recently restored lighthouse at Brandy Pot
Island near Riviere du Loup (PQ) dates from 1862, the same year a wooden
lighthouse was built on Bellechasse
Island.
Offshore from Vancouver Island on Canada's Pacific coast, the
Imperial lighthouses at Fisgard
Island and Race
Rocks were built to safeguard the approaches to the Royal Navy base
at Esquimalt.
An interesting screw-pile lighthouse was built at Sandheads
off the mouth of the Fraser river in 1880; it was demolished in 1913 and
replaced by a lightship. After building a long jetty to stabilize the channel
location, in 1960 a new
lighthouse was built at Sandheads.
Latter 19th Century
The new Dominion of Canada undertook another round of lighthouse building
following Confederation. The 1870's saw well over 100 new lighthouses go
into operation; during this period Sable
Island, "the graveyard of the Atlantic", and Bird
Rock, an outcrop of the Magdalen
Islands archipelago, were finally lit.
A great number of lighthouses built during the 19th century were tapering
wooden towers, usually 4 or 8-sided. They had the advantage of being cheap
to build, and in some cases could be relocated if the site was threatened
by erosion. Surviving examples include Miscou
Island and Mulholland
light (on Campobello Island) in New Brunswick, Margaretsville
(NS), and Panmure
Island , East
Point,North
Cape,West Point,
Cape Bear,
and Woods Island
on PEI.
Many of the towers from the 1870-1900 period were attached
to the dwelling, for example Peases
Island and East
Ironbound Island in Nova Scotia, Hope
Island in Georgian Bay, or the second lighthouse at Cap
Gaspe in Quebec. Their ranks include a number of picturesque harbour
or range lights such as Grande
Anse in NB and New
London rear range light in PEI.
Unfortunately there is a long list of wooden lighthouses which burned
down, including the second one at Cape
Ray in Newfoundland, the one on Ile
Haute in the Bay of Fundy, Holland
Rock in BC, and the one on remote Greenly
Island south of Labrador. The latter made headlines in 1928 when the
German plane BREMEN
crash landed there after making the first successful east-west transatlantic
flight.
Colonel Anderson's Tenure, 1900-14
In the 1870's responsibility for navigational aids was transferred from
the Department of Public Works to the Department
of Marine and Fisheries. In 1904 the Department's Lighthouse Board
was given a broader mission, and its dynamic chairman
Colonel William Patrick Anderson (1851-1927) planned an ambitious construction program .Various coastal beacons
were upgraded from relector-type to state-of-the-art Fresnel
lenses, manufactured by Barbier, Benard & Turenne of Paris, or Chance
Brothers of Birmingham (UK). In order to lessen the dependence on such
foreign suppliers, the Dominion Lighthouse Depot was established in a former
starch factory at Prescott, ON in 1903. Numerous old wooden towers were
replaced by reinforced concrete or prefabricated cast-iron towers, examples
being Metis,
Cap de la
Madeleine, Cap
Chat and Matane
on the Gaspe peninsula, Cape
Croker on Georgian
Bay, and Cape
Race in Newfoundland. The latter was perhaps the most important landfall
beacon for North Atlantic traffic, and remains one of a handful of lighthouses
in the world equipped with a giant hyper-radiant
lens. It also boasted a new diaphone or compressed-air fog horn,
a 1902 invention of Toronto's J.P. Northery Ltd. Click to download an audio
clip (WAV format) of the diaphone foghorn in Duluth MN, or of the
electric foghorn (RealAudio format) at Race Rocks, BC.
In 1904, the pre-fabricated cast-iron lighthouse
at Fame Point,
near Anse-a-Valleau on the Gaspe coast, became the first maritime wireless
(Marconi) station in North America. In 1977, this lighthouse was dismantled
and became a tourist attraction in Quebec City, but was scheduled to have
been repatriated
to its original site in late 1997.
To support the higher-order lenses (which floated in a bath of mercury),
exposed ferro-concrete towers were sometimes buttressed, such as at Point
Atkinson near Vancouver BC,
Natashquan Point in Quebec, Ile Parisienne in Lake Superior,
or at Langara
and Sheringham
Point on Vancouver Island. In 1910 one of these towers was built at
the windswept summit of Triangle
Island, 25 miles off the northern tip of Vancouver Island. However,
this turned out to be a costly blunder; at an elevation of 650 feet, the
light was far too high to be visible in bad weather. After 10 years, the
lantern
was dismantled and brought back to the Coast Guard base in Victoria while
the original plan of building a lighthouse at Cape
Scott was carried out in 1927.
The art of building tall lighthouses using reinforced concrete reached
its ultimate expression in the flying buttresses of Estevan
Point on the Pacific Coast, at Michipicoten Island and remote Caribou
Island in Lake Superior, at Northeast
Belle Isle in the Labrador Straits, at Bagot
Bluff on Anticosti Island, and at Pointe-au-Pere
near Rimouski, Quebec. At 109 feet the latter ranks with Point
Amour as Canada's second-tallest lighthouse.
Some lighthouses from the early 1900's were of traditional 8-sided timber
construction, such as at Point
Riche near Port au Choix, Newfoundland, Henry
Island in Cape Breton (NS), at Riviere
La Martre (site of a museum)
on the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, Lonely Island
in Lake Huron, or at Pachena
Point on Vancouver Island, site of the terrible Valencia
shipwreck of 1906. However, the vast majority of post-1910 lighthouses
replicated the octagonal pattern using the new ferro-concrete construction
technique. Examples are Peggy's
Cove and Western
Island (NS), Cap
Gaspe and Cap
au Saumon (PQ), and Machias
Seal Island (NB). This style was carried to impressive height (102
feet) at Cape
Sable Island (NS), Long
Point in Lake Erie, and Great
Duck Island in Lake Huron.
The ornate lighthouse at Point
Abino on Lake Erie dates from 1917. It was built as a memorial to the
crew of the Buffalo-based US Lightship #82 which went down with all hands
during the infamous Big
Storm of November 1913, which claimed a total of twelve ships and 235
lives.
Museums, Societies, and Useful Addresses
- Heritage Canada - cover article by Chris Mills in the Fall '99 issue
-
Nova Scotia Lighthouse
Preservation Society
- New Brunswick Lighthouse Society
-
Henry Island (NS) Lighthouse Preservation
Society
-
Prince Edward Island Lighthouse Preservation Society
-
Yarmouth County Museum,
Yarmouth NS
-
Friends of the Yarmouth Light
-
Criag Harding, Co-Chair
RR3 Box 6660, Cape Forchu
Yarmouth, NS B5A 4A7
- Cape Enrage Adventures, New Brunswick
-
Musee de la Mer
-
1034 Route du Phare
Pointe au Pere, QC G5M 1L8
tel. (418) 724 6214; fax. (418) 721-0815
- Pointe des Monts lighthouse Bed & Breakfast.
-
Huronia Museum,
Midland ON
-
Chantry Island restoration,
Southamption ON
-
National Museum of
Science and Technology, Ottawa ON
-
Centre
d'Interpretation des Phares et Balises, Riviere la Martre QC
-
Seal Island Lighthouse
Museum, Barrington NS
-
New Brunswick Museum,
Saint John NB.
-
Maritime Museum of the Great Lakes,
Kingston ON
-
Bernier Maritime Museum
-
55, Rue des Pionniers Est
L'Islet sur Mer, QC
(418) 247 2496
-
Point Clark, Cabot Head, and Kicardine lighthouse museums in Ontario's
Bruce County
-
Mississagi Lighthouse and Museum
-
Meldrum Bay, ON
(Manitoulin Island)
tel. (705) 866-2682
-
Port Burwell Lighthouse and Museum
-
PO Box 10, 21 Pitt Street
Port Burwell ON N0J 1T0
tel. (519) 874-4204
-
Mariners Memorial Lighthouse
Park and Musuem, Milford ON (613) 476-8392
-
Maritime Museum of the
Atlantic, Halifax NS
-
Maritime Museum of British Columbia,
Victoria BC
-
Port Colborne
Historical and Marine Museum , Port Colborne ON
-
Other
Canadian maritime museums.
Photo Gallery
-
Canadian Coast
Guard image archive.
-
Canadian lighthouse photos
for sale by Chris Mills
-
Newfoundland
& Labrador
-
New Brunswick
-
Nova Scotia
-
Prince Edward
Island
-
Quebec
-
Ontario
-
Manitoba
-
British Columbia
-
Keepers of the Light:
BC Lightstations by JK & IK.
-
Lighthouses of British Columbia
by Ron Ammundsen of Bonilla Island.
-
Race Rocks
lighthouse, its history
and foghorn
-
Sheringham
Point on Vancouver Island.
-
Pachena Point
lighthouse and lantern
-
Parks Canada page for Fisgard
Lighthouse National Historic Site.
-
BC archives images of Sheringham
Point, Race
Rocks, Fisgard
a>,
Estevan
Point, Georgina
Point, Point
Atkinson, Kains
Island, Carmanah,
Pachena
Point, Merry
Island.
-
Moving Images (MPEG format) of Carmanah
Point
-
Article about Carmanah
Point from Lighthouse Digest magazine.
-
BC
lighthouse facts from the Canadian Coast Guard
Other Dominions
Stamps and Artwork
Update Log
-
1-Jul-96: started
-
14-Feb-97: New link for Point Clark; Race Rocks magazine article
-
24-Feb-97: St. Paul Island sub-page.
-
6-Mar-97: Mohawk Island; Link for Imperial Lights article.
-
1-April-97: Brandypot Islands (Duvetnor); Gibralter Point stamp; Pointe
Amour links
-
21-May-97: New link for Ron's page; Georgian Bay article from LH Digest.
-
31-May-97: Added link to Long Point page; added some PEI links.
-
18-July-97: Added guestbook; made NB page into a table & added links.
-
22-Aug-97: Added Bird Rock, Sable Island, Anticosti & listed some new
books.
-
5-Sep-97: Added Battle Island, fixed Race Rocks & Coast Guard links,
boat trips, etc.
-
9-Sep-97: La Martre museum, Pointe-au-Pere, Quebec table, sub-pages
-
14-Dec-97: West Point (PEI), links to Pete Amass (NB, NS, NF), Seal Island,
fixed NSLPS link.
-
20-Dec-97: Added link to Canadian Coast Guard "Lighthouse Heritage" website;
fixed links, etc.
-
13-Jan-98: Added Sable Island sub-page, Heath Point, Cape Pine, Gull Island,
Fame Point, Presqu'ile, etc.
-
16-Feb-98: Main Duck Island, Mariner's Memorial Park.
-
3-March-98: Mariner's Memorial Park (website), Port Dalhousie, Lawren Harris
painting.
-
14-March-98: Peases Island (NS).
-
22-March-98: Henry Island, Chantry Island restoration.
-
06-April-98: Gibraltar Point page, Fame Point press announcement
-
15-Apriil-98: Cape Roseway, Triangle Island, fixed Genoa & BC Archive
links
-
9-Sept-98: Added Caribou Island, Slate Islands & Trowbridge Island.
-
24-Sep-98: Point Abino info/photos; Quebec sub-page, Bremen link
-
1-Oct-98: West Point (old & new), Cap de Rabast, Heath Point, Entry
Island
-
14-Oct-98: PEI, Newfoundland & Ontario image galleries.
- 17-Nov-99: Heritage Canada link; Ile Verte; Cape Enrage; fixed broken links
- 07-Dec-99: Colonel Anderson info; new Point Abino pics; fixed Big Storm link
- 30-Aug-00: Cap Chat; Cap Lumiere; fixed broken links.
- 21-Sep-00: Added link to Partridge Island site
- 24-Nov-00: Added Michipicoten & Davieaux Island; fixed Point Clark link.
- 23-Feb-01: Lake Superior, Lake Huron, Lake Winnipeg, Natashquan.
- 10-Mar-01: fixed Louisbourg link etc.
Send email with your comments.
|