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Crawling Skeleton
           Crawling Skeleton
1. Motor Base and Linkage Assembly
BASE  - I used  ½” thick wood and plywood (6 pieces)

Materials

Wood pieces needed : (1) 12 5/8”  x 3” also known as Piece A
            (2) 6” x 3”        also known as Pieces    B, C
            (2) 3 Ύ”  x 3 Ύ “    also know as Pieces    D, E
            (1) 9 ½ “ x 4” tall or longer -  AKA Piece    F

Parts

(1) 6 – 18 RPM 12 VDC Gear Motor  (Picture B)        
(2) 3/8” x 24 x 1” hex bolts      
(2) Ball joint swivel connectors  (Picture C)
(4) 3/8” x 24  hex nuts
(1) AC to DC Adaptor (Wall wart)
(4) 3/8” Lock washers
4 ft of 1/8” x Ύ “ Flat Aluminum Stock
(1) ½” Fender Washer
1 ft of 1/16” x 1” Aluminum Angle stock (L)
(4) Ό” Lock washers
(12) #6 by Ύ” wood screws
Thin Wire
Cotter Pin
(8)   #8 by 1” wood screws
(4) #10 x 32 x 2” Flat Slotted Bolts and Nuts            
Wireless Remote Control Unit

1.    Take A and slide piece B under it and line up flush with the front and left side of A (see picture D). Use # 8 x1” wood screws (2 per side) to secure. Repeat for piece C, except on right side.
2.    Take piece D and measure 1 ½” horizontally from REAR of it and mark it and draw a vertical line. Then measure 1 ½ “ vertically, mark that point and draw a horizontal line. Where those lines intersect use a 1 Ό “ hole saw on drill to make hole. On the front side of D cut out a Ύ “ x Ύ “ square notch at the bottom (see picture D ). This is where D will overlap A when mounted.. Cut about a 1 ½ “ length of the 1” aluminum L – stock. This will be the bracket for attaching D to B (I used #6 x Ύ “ wood screws). Drill two 9/64 “ holes in each side of L – bracket. Center bracket flush with inside bottom of D and screw in place with two # 6 screws. Use a dremel tool with a sanding attachment to round off the edges on the inside (same side as bracket) of the 1 Ό “ hole. This gives the arms more room to rotate properly. (See Picture I)
3.    Repeat step 2 for Piece E. We will do a little more to the D and E pieces after we mount the motor.
4.    Take piece F. Measure over 4 1/8 “ horizontal from front of F toward the rear and mark the point and draw a vertical line. Measure 1 Ύ “ from bottom, mark point and draw a horizontal line. Where those lines intersect drill a 7/8” hole using a paddle bit in drill. Cut about a 2” piece of L-stock for a bracket. Drill two 11/64” holes in each side of the bracket. Remove the two screws from the rear of the motor assembly. Be careful – hold motor base tightly or it can come in half and all the little gears will fall out. I know – it happened to me. Set motor in place on F with short shaft going through the wood (motor tower should be positioned on top, about the 11:00 o’clock position). Center the short shaft in the 7/8 “ hole and use some coat hanger wire or small drill bit to mark the 4 motor mount holes. Use a 13/64 “ bit for the 4 holes. Attach L-bracket to F, flush with bottom and centered about 2 inches from the front. Use two #8 screws. Temporarily screw the motor in place. Use #10 32 x 2” flat slotted bolts and nuts (these bolts match the threads in the motor). Screw bolts thru wood to motor, then nuts. (See Picture E) Piece F will mounted to A in a position slightly off center. The reason is in order to center the ends of the two motor shafts equally from the arm guides (pieces D and E). I mounted mine with the wood part of F centered 5 Ύ “ from left side of A. Use two #8 screws. Set D in place on B (flush with outside edge) and eyeball thru the large hole at the motor shaft to center the hole in D with the shaft. Then mark bracket holes in B. Don’t screw D to B just yet. Repeat same procedure for right side (E to C). Remove motor from F and replace the two original screws in Base. This a good time to trim the corners off of D and E. (see picture F). And also cut an angle off on the front of piece F (see picture G). Or leave it until later if you think it will be needed to mount the skeleton’s head. Also, saw off at an angle both front sides of piece A (See picture G).
5.    This next step might seem unimportant, but it is a very important piece. Needed are two (approx. 3” long, 1 ½ “ wide) thin metal strips (these will go over the holes in C). Use a dremel or drill to make a slot in it (about 1” long) and slightly wider than the 1/8” aluminum stock you are using for the arms. (I find it is easier to drill 4 or 5 small holes in a row and then cut the slot square with a dremel cutting wheel). Drill a 9/64” hole on each side of the slot in order to mount it (with slot centered in middle of hole) on the outside of D with #6 screws. (See Picture H) Repeat for E. This metal glide gives the arm a pivot point and also keeps the arm from falling forward as it circles around. Without this piece the hand and wrist would never lift off the ground.
6.    Now D and E can be mounted to B and C using the #6 screws in the holes previously marked. Spray paint assembly black. Drill a small hole in flat part of short motor shaft for cotter pin. Re-attach motor to D (using the 10 – 32 x 2” bolts, Ό “ lock washers and nuts). Attach F to A using two # 8 screws.



 

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