The Standard

Marsha’s Commentary on the Breed Standard

The Toy Fox Terrier is supposed to be a healthy, active, smaller dog, equally square [short backed], with balance between bone structure and size. It is bred down from the Smooth Fox Terrier, thus ought to share a strong bone structure and correctly placed and structured legs. It should gladly meet people and other animals of all ages. The TFT serves a variety of purposes and is seen in many situations: family pet, agility, circuses, confirmation, lap sitter, hunter, nursing home visitor, therapy, and so forth. Regardless of its being a pet or a pure bred registered TFT, the dog should bring a balanced look, immediately one whose structure says “I’m a Toy Fox Terrier!”

The head is a bit more chiseled, but should NOT look like a Chihuahua’s nor fully filled out like a Smooth Fox Terrier’s. It should never have a pointed or domed look. The head and any body spots should be the same color; any white should not extend into the eyes for ears for a show quality, confirmation dog. Teeth should be a full set and white, though as the dog ages some teeth may turn yellow and a tooth can disappear. The bite is not to be under-shot or more than Ľ” over-shot; this can be noticed at birth and certainly as the teeth start in. However, due to growth patterns the bite may change and the owner should not overly worry if the pup’s initial bite was correct. Eyes and expression are very important in a Toy Fox Terrier, as in any dog. The eyes are to be dark and smaller, never to bulge out. They should be alert, intelligent, possibly playful, and kind/warm/not hostile. The nose is supposed to mature dark, really black, though some pups at birth carry a pink nose. The dog is expected to defend its space and its property, including its owner, without being aggressive or mean or snappy. It is both Terrier and Companion. It will look at and observe what is interesting, which may not be a judge who is not offering a real reward.

The ears should stand erect, up on the head, though at rest they may be a bit to one side, but not flopping; some actually sleep with their ears fully up and listening, even under bed covers.

The legs should stand squarely under the dog, not inside its rib-cage/body, something easily checked when watching front and rear gaiting. The front legs should stand straight, high on small paws; the rear should be angulated, never straight. Proper placement is critical for ease of movement and a smooth, flowing gait, which reaches out in front and drives from the rear.

This easy reach and drive reflect not only a smooth movement but are part of the dog’s ability to perform its original tasks and are an important part of its general good structure, thus good health. However, one can become overly worried about a puppy’s legs; these change with age, including into maturity. A pup’s legs are going to be a bit looser than a mature dog’s; look at the 8 week puppy and see if the legs are correct; if so, then that is what the mature adult’s legs will be too. The toes occasionally turn out but this generally is not a structural worry, just as in humans; even the rear feet sometimes turn but, again, this is not a structural worry unless the legs are cow-hocked, meaning they touch while walking [which if present still should not prevent the dog from being a good pet]. For those not breeding or choosing a show quality animal, this is of less concern, as some humans aren’t quite as perfectly put together as others, yet function very satisfactorily. The legs should have muscle but not look like a weight-lifter’s on steroids.

The body of a Toy Fox Terrier should appear small but solid, with good bone meaning substance rather than frail; there should be breath across the back, which should be of consistent size front to rear. It should not be narrow. There should be a tuck up, in other words, as the back end of the dog is reached, the lower side should pull up. This should be balanced with a chest in the front which is lower than the rear and is seen from the side without appear as a particularly front-extended.

The back should appear solid and straight. There should be no dips or curves, even if the dog is older. That top line should hold over any ground and surface, a distinguishing characteristic of a better put together Toy Fox Terrier. It also should not roach or rise, especially at the back end, signaling a poor rear assembly, also reflected in a lower tail set.

The neck should carry the head proudly, and not be skinny nor have an unbalanced thickness, though some have a bit thicker neck which is a defense when hunting. The neck should not appear short nor particularly tall and should blend into well laid back shoulders.

The tail is a critical part of this dog, actually for any breed. Here it is to be set high on the top and back end, appear when gaiting to be the stop, lifting directly off the back; a bit fuller tail is a nicer appearance but a narrower one is not supposed to be judged negatively. Sometimes it is naturally bobbed, not to be faulted, and sometimes it just fails to fully grow or gets cut too short. However, what tail is there still should be high set and be carried erectly when gaiting, and preferably when standing, especially in pups. In quality dogs it should be seen erect, even in old age, 14-16 years. The tail should not appear squirrel set, droopy, or corkscrewed, but simply up and straight.

The coat should cover the body and legs, be medium weight, with a nice touch, often seemingly to glisten and be dirt/water repellent but not be especially soft or wiry.

While its markings are probably indifferent to many pet owners and in fact certain colorations may be endearing, to the show quality owner, the coat’s color is very important: non-white color cannot extend below the elbows; white cannot extend into the eyes or ears; the head’s spots must color match any body spots; and a tri-is supposed to have dark or light tan eye and cheek dots.

While one can judge/evaluate only what is in the ring/in the whelping box at the moment, the serious breeder should watch what size the tft is at maturity, closer to two and one-half to three years than one year of age, when it may continue growing another ˝” and ˝ to full pound. Thus, my preference is to breed my females and males after maturity, which should not interfere with their ability to produce or care for puppies and to carefully track their size at birth and maturity. [From my own experience and lines, my maturely correctly-sized adults start life, being around three ounces, tails up, ears often up, wiggling, and making noises.]

There are two ways to evaluate proper size for the Toy Fox Terrier, but the best is to take both into consideration and to look for a dog balanced in both weight and size. Thus, the UKC evaluation is an animal between 3.5 and 7 pounds at maturity; the AKC evaluation is an animal between 8” and 11.5” at maturity. Balance is the key term because a tall but thin boned animal is not properly put together, and may not be very healthy, nor would a short but heavy boned one. Read the two standards and study the Smooth Fox Terrier.

Toy Fox Terriers should not have major health problems, though recently some genes have pooled together, producing occasional problems. The careful breeder is choosing to breed out these genes, but this takes dedication, observation, and thought.

Recent veterinary research indicates that poor quality food and over use of shots may contribute to health problems in all dogs; fortunately, this seems to show reversible results within the second or third generation. Please become current with latest recommendations on shots and pills. Currently, the rabies shot is no longer being given yearly. Parvo is another issue, which only you and your vet can decide upon; over use of antibiotics affects all animals, and proven ‘cures’ are available; however, this is a serious disease. I do recommend that when possible, the less non-natural food items put inside any dog is going to produce better health. The food does not have to be expensive and can include fresh vegetables, which the little dogs have taken straight from the garden.

If you decide to consider breeding, please remember to check your TFT, both male and female, for diseases which can interfere with producing off-spring. Two TFTs do not automatically enjoy breeding with each other; some do not like to do so away from home or with others watching; some females get very nasty when tied; some males get very aggressive. So, do not be surprised if an owner does not want to become involved in breeding and do not be surprised if a breeding is much more complicated than you expected. As breeders become more restrictive about having non-members of their group within their homes/kennels and become more demanding about the quality of both future sire and dam, they sometimes use AI’s and frozen sperm; this is becoming more successful and offers some important advantages for both owners.

Remember, this breed was developed to sleep with the kids, clear the barn of vermin, get foxes out of the dens, have pups under the porch, and get along with everyone. Soundness and general vitality are part of its heritage. Finally, remember to just enjoy that toy fox terrier!!!

You be the judge.